Aconcagua mountain expedition guides climbing
Aconcagua mountain expedition guides climbing

Aconcagua Expedition Mountain Guides

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RODRIGO MUJICA
Director

AMGA Certified Alpine Guide, Rock Guide & Ski Mountaineering Guide

UIAGM / IFMGA Internationally Certified
Mountain Guide



U.S. Owned & Operated
 

EXPEDITIONS
Aconcagua
Ojos Del Salado | Nevado Juncal | Central Andes
Bolivian Classics | Bolivian Technical Climbs | Ecuador | Peru
Tupungato Volcano
| Trekking Patagonia | Skiing Patagonia
North Tower of Paine | Central Tower of Paine


PERU

HUASCARAN EXPEDITION - CORDILLERA BLANCA

Pisco Oeste (18,871')
Huascaran Norte (21,831')
Huascaran Sur (22,205')

DATES OF TRIP:

May 1-15, 2005
June 4-18, 2005
July 2-16, 2005
Aug 6-20, 2005

DURATION OF TRIP: 15 days
COST OF TRIP: $3000
DEPOSIT DUE TO RESERVE A POSITION: $600
BALANCE AMOUNT: $2400
DATE BALANCE DUE: 60 days before departure.

Nevado Huascaran is the highest peak in Peru and one of the most spectacular summits in the world. The climb offers moderate snow and ice climbing in a spectacular setting.

After arriving to Lima, we quickly move to Huaraz, at the foot of the magnificent Cordillera Blanca where we start our acclimatization process. next day we drive north to Nevado Pisco Oeste. We establish our first camp at 12,600 feet and with the help of pack animals, the next day we move up to our second camp at 15,000 feet. The next day we move to high camp to a spectacular col between Pisco Oeste and Nevado Huandoy. From here scenic glacier travel and snow slopes up to 35 degrees takes us to the summit. This is a perfect introduction to the amazing Cordillera Blanca and a great way to start the trip and our acclimatization process for our next objective, Huascaran (22,205’).

After a rest, we drive to the town of Musho at the foothills of Huascaran, from here we hike to our base camp at 14,400 feet, and pack animals again carry our gear. From this point we establish three more camps on Huascaran at 15,600', 18,000’ and 19,600’. The climbing is absolutely spectacular having a wide spectrum of different terrain from icy slopes, to glaciated terrain, seracs, bergschrund and ice falls are part of our daily scenery. The climbing is fun and always moderate.

From our high camp at 19,600’ we make attempts on both peaks of Huascaran. We first may try Huascaran Sur, the easiest and highest of both peaks. Exciting and fun climbing takes to the summit, with short sections up to 45 degrees, and astonishing views of The whole Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Negra, and the vast Amazon Basin.

COST INCLUDES
Professional Mountain Guides, 2 nights hotel accommodation in Lima, 2 nights hotel accommodation in Huaraz, all land transportation, mules, all expedition food, all community gear (tents, stoves, cooking gear, medical kit, etc.), and permits.

YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR
Flights to Lima, meals in Lima, Huaraz and any towns, personal equipment, passport, personal items and services (laundry, drinks, tips, etc.), and expenses incurred in the case of a rescue.

EXPEDITION ITINERARY

DAY 1: Group meets in Lima. Equipment check and afternoon briefing at the hotel. Dinner.
DAY 2: Drive from Lima to Huaraz.
DAY 3: Drive from Huaraz to Trailhead, approach to Base camp.
DAY 4: Acclimatization day
DAY 5-
6:
Climb Nevado Pisco
DAY 7: Set up Base Camp for Huascaran
DAY 8-
12:
Climb Huascaran, possibly both summits depending on weather conditions and team members.
DAY 13: Down to base camp.
DAY 14: Back to Huaraz
DAY 15: Drive back to Lima. Celebration Dinner. Next day fly home or continue traveling in South America.


NOTE
This itinerary is intended to be a guideline only, weather days and rest days are always a possibility while on a climbing expedition.

 

 
 
 
 
 

 

 

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© Photos by
Rodrigo Mujica


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