Nevado Huascaran is the highest peak in Peru and one of the most spectacular summits in the world. The climb offers moderate snow and ice climbing in a spectacular setting.
After arriving to Lima, we quickly move to Huaraz, at the foot of the magnificent Cordillera Blanca where we start our acclimatization process. next day we drive north to Nevado Pisco Oeste. We establish our first camp at 12,600 feet and with the help of pack animals, the next day we move up to our second camp at 15,000 feet. The next day we move to high camp to a spectacular col between Pisco Oeste and Nevado Huandoy. From here scenic glacier travel and snow slopes up to 35 degrees takes us to the summit. This is a perfect introduction to the amazing Cordillera Blanca and a great way to start the trip and our acclimatization process for our next objective, Huascaran (22,205').
After a rest, we drive to the town of Musho at the foothills of Huascaran, from here we hike to our base camp at 14,400 feet, and pack animals again carry our gear. From this point we establish three more camps on Huascaran at 15,600', 18,000' and 19,600'. The climbing is absolutely spectacular having a wide spectrum of different terrain from icy slopes, to glaciated terrain, seracs, bergschrund and ice falls are part of our daily scenery. The climbing is fun and always moderate.
From our high camp at 19,600' we make attempts on both peaks of Huascaran. We first may try Huascaran Sur, the easiest and highest of both peaks. Exciting and fun climbing takes to the summit, with short sections up to 45 degrees, and astonishing views of The whole Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Negra, and the vast Amazon Basin.
