Aventuras Patagonicas Dispatches

Summit!

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 21:03:53 -0300

I have the excellent news that the team summited today. I did not speak with them directly yet, but our base camp broke the news. I wanted to let you know that at least two climbers and a guide made it. All the team is back at high camp now. Congratulations for this big achievement! As soon as I hear from Claudio, the lead guide, I will post the details. Patience!

This summit comfirms that it´s been a great season for Aventuras Patagonicas so far, with 12 out of 12 trips reaching the summit, and just three more to go.

Camp II

Thu, 02 Feb 2012 22:48:31 -0300

The team is at Camp II, the Chopper Camp, at 18,000 ft. Everyone is fine, according to guide Claudio. We just spoke and he says the plan is to move to High Camp, at 19,600 ft, toomorrow, and then if all goes well go for the summit on Friday. The weather forecast is ok for Friday. so the team has a good challenge ahead! Good luck to them. I attach a picture of the high slopes of Mt Aconcagua (from a previous trip). Regards.
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Camp I

Thu, 02 Feb 2012 22:46:46 -0300

The team completed the base camp acclimatization stage, and moved on to the altitude stage. They moved to Camp I, at 16,000 ft, yesterday. They had carried gear and food to CI before moving, so they are used to the altitude.
From now on they will be playing the game of resting, carrying to a higher camp and then moving to that camp. From Camp III, or High Camp, they will go to the summit and come back to sleep there. But that´s way ahead, now they are focused in gaining altitude while keeping their energy. Claudio (the guide) says everyone is fine. I attach a picture of the group relaxing in front of our dining tent at BC. Cheers!

Hanging at base camp

Wed, 01 Feb 2012 19:37:38 -0300

The team reached base camp Plaza Argentina (14,000 ft) yesterday, after hiking three days up the Vacas and Relinchos rivers. They shared an asado (BBQ) with the gauchos who drive the loading mules, and they got to see some of the best views of the East Face of Mt Aconcagua, with the imposing Polish Glacier (picture).

Everyone is strong and happy, according to guide Aike, who was kind enough to send me these nice pictures of the group at BC and and walking by the East Face.

They rested today, enjoying the company and the good cooking of Celina and Chemelo ("Chemellow"), our base camp managers. They will carry gear and food to Camp I tomorrow. I will keep you informed of their progress. Stay tuned!

On the trail

Mon, 30 Jan 2012 15:59:49 -0300

A new good, solid-looking group set foot on the trail today. There are seven climbers and two guides in this team, our 13th expedition of the season. We shared a nice dinner in Mendoza (Argentina), the team got to know each other and their guides -Aike Parvex and Mariana Gallego- and they bought their Aconcagua permits. Yesterday the group spent the night at Los Penitentes, a small ski resort that is used as a starting point by many Aconcagua expeditions.

Now they have a 3-day hike in ahead to get to Plaza Argentina, the Relincho´s Valley base camp at 14,000 ft. I will be posting an update when they arrive there. Here are pictures of the group in Mendoza and in Los Penitentes. The climbers are Sheila, Todd, Wade, Jeff, Phillip, Bruce and John.

Resting at Plaza Argentina

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 12:45:18 -0300

The whole team completed the approach with no incidentes and arrived to Plaza Argentina (14,000 ft) yesterday. They enjoyed a barbecue during the hike in, and passed some nice viewpoints (picture). They are now enjoying the gourmet food of Chemelo (AKA Chemellow) and Celina at base camp. I will post a dispatch when they call. Regards.

Summit!

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 12:39:19 -0300

It was worth to wait, as the team did summited Mt Aconcagua yesterday! Five climbers in this group stood at the top, at 22,834 ft of altitude. With them, our lead guide Augusto Ortega achieved a really amazing record: his 60th summit in this big mountain! No man has climbed it so many times. Also, this is our tenth summit of the season, out of 10 trips. A record that makes us proud.
But beyond numbers, what it counts is the experience of knowing awesome places and some inner places too; leaving the city and the things we take for granted behind. So congratulations to climbers and guides.

The team is completing the Mt Aconcagua traverse today, by descending to Plaza de Mulas. They will reach Mendoza on Friday.
Regards!

Summit!

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 11:51:35 -0300

The team made the summit yesterday! Lead guide Mike Bradley called from High Camp when they came back. They had a great summit day, left early and came back early too, and most of the climbers made it -5 out of 6-. They stood amazed at 22,834 ft, looking to the rest of the Andes below. Probably a lifetime experience for everyone. The climbers in this team crossed half the World to get here, from the Faroe Island and from the UK. Congratulations to them!

Now the group will complete the Aconcagua traverse, by descending to base camp Plaza de Mulas today. They will be back at the trailhead tomorrow and at Mendoza by Saturday. This makes our eleventh summit of the season, or in other words, a 100% success rate (11 out of 11), if we measure by groups and not by individuals. I attach a good picture of the summit risge, taken by Mike in previous trip.

In the trail

Mon, 23 Jan 2012 21:12:01 -0300

A strong-looking group of four climbers and two guides left the lodge at Los Penitentes today, after spending a couple of days in the city of Mendoza (Argentina). Here they got their pemits, as usual, and got a taste of our wines and meat, besides of course meeting each other and their guides Claudio and Andrea. They began hiking today, with light packs since the loads travel to base in the back of some mules (we treat this hard working animals with care!). The climbers are Neil Halsey, Mark Hassenkamp, David "Chimu" McGrain and Donald Martin (who just climbed El Plomo Mt in Chile, with AP Director Rodrigo Mujica). Here they are in a picture, before leaving the hotel.

It wil take them three days to get to base camp Plaza Argentina (14,000ft). I will post a dispatch when they get there. Until then!
Nicolás García

Back to the city

Sun, 22 Jan 2012 22:37:58 -0300

The team came back to Mendoza, all of them tired and happy, and shared (two or three) celebration dinners, and even a breakfast at the Hyatt with their guides JJ, Eliana and Rolo. It is time to go home now; we hope this trip remains a unique experience in their memories. THank you all for the patience, and keep climbing.
Cheers,
Nicolás García

Moving to High Camp

Sun, 22 Jan 2012 22:36:03 -0300

After a good acclimatization period, the team is finally bound for the high regions of Aconcagua. They did a carry of gear to High Camp -6000m.- and will move up to that camp tomorrow. The air is thin there, but the long days spent working in the mountain have prepared the climbers for the effort. Thy might spend a rest day at High Camp or go for the summit, depending on the conditions, the group, and other things. I will keep you informed. I attach a picture of the upper slopes of Mt Aconcagua, from a previous trip. Regards.

At 6000m - 19,685 ft

Sun, 22 Jan 2012 22:33:53 -0300

Augusto, Analía, Travis and the team are at Camp II (18,000 ft), ready to move to High Camp, at 6,000m. They already know the feeling of walking at that altitude, since they did a carry of gear to High Camp today. They might move up tomorrow or the next day, and they might go for the summit on the 24th or 25th. It will depend on the conditions, the plan of the group, etc. But everyone is well, they shared time with the climbers and guides of the AP#11 expedition. I attach a picture of high camp, a unique place with some breathtaking views. I will post a dispatch when I have news. Regards.

Summit!

Sun, 22 Jan 2012 13:13:13 -0300

Five climbers and two guides made it to the top of the Hemisphere, the summit of Mt Aconcagua, yesterday. JJ called from high camp to say that they were back to the tents after a beautiful summit day, all of them tired but very happy and with an experience they will surely treasure for the rest of their lifes. The team left camp before sunrise, in a bitter cold, but everyone endured that though 2 hours, until the sun warmed them up and revealed some awesome mountain-scapes in all directions. Then they kept going until there`s was no higher place to go: the 22,838 ft summit, the highest point in the World outside Asia, and the second in altitude of the Seven Summits, after Mt Everest. Congratulations!

Now they are completing the Aconcagua traverse. They will descend to Plaza de Mulas today, hike out to Los Penitentes tomorrow and finally come back to Mendoza on Saturday. I will let you know how everything goes. Cheers!
Nicolás García

Mission Top of (3/4 of) the World: Completed!

Sun, 22 Jan 2012 09:29:58 -0300

Our team successfully completed all the goals of their mission: all of them summited Aconcagua and all of them completed the Aconcagua traverse. They stood at the very top of this side of the world yesterday, and came down safely to base camp Plaza de Mulas today.
The summit of Mt Aconcagua, second in altitude of the Seven Summits and the highest place you can find outside the Himalayas, it´s an awesome strip of rock and snow at 22,834 ft. The Fabulous 8 -six climbers, 2 guides- managed to send us a picture of their achievement. Congratulations to this team!

This summit keeps our 100% success this season -measuring by trips that made the summit-, an amazing figure of nine out of nine trips getting to the top.

The group will hike out tomorrow, spend the night at Los Penitentes and come to Mendoza on Monday, to celebrate and have new missions assigned. Cheers!
Nicolás García

Camp I is ours - Episode 3

Thu, 19 Jan 2012 16:00:02 -0300

The team moved their headquarters to Camp I, at 16,000 ft. Their superpowers remain strong in the altitude. This is all I can reveal today. More news when information is declassified. No pictures this time, so I am posting one from a previous mission. Over.
Agent Andean Condor
Mendoza

Resting at Camp I

Thu, 19 Jan 2012 15:52:06 -0300

The team, with all its climbers and guides, was resting at Camp I (16,000 ft), yesterday. Augusto called the office last night, after an early dinner, and said everything was great in the expedition. They raised their glasses for Jeanie Schaden´s sister, who was having a birthday party more than 12.000 km away, back in the US. They will do a carry of gear or move to Camp II today. They plan to go to the summit, if everything goes according to plans, on the 23rd or 24th. I will keep you updated. Regards!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Getting close to the top...

Mon, 16 Jan 2012 23:42:33 -0300

JJ and his team are ready to go for the big day. Weather permitting, they will attempt the summit on Wednesday. They are at camp II, at 18.000 ft, now, and will move to High Camp (19,700ft) tomorrow (tuesday). Motivation is high and weather forecast is fine.

"We are having a great time", said a happy JJ over the sat phone. I am attaching a nice picture of High camp, taken by a previous group. I will let you know how your loved ones are doing when they call me again. Until then, regards!

First carry to Camp I

Mon, 16 Jan 2012 23:39:20 -0300

The team completed their acclimatization in base camp (14,000 ft), and did their first carry of gear and food to Camp I (16,000 ft) today. "Everyone is doing great", said Mike Bradley, the leading guide. They had some good meals at Plaza Argentina, and rested there before facing the altitude stage of the expedition. Weather has been rainy but not too bad. The weather forecast shows good days ahead. I attach a picture of the view they had from the trail. Regards!

Base Camp

Mon, 16 Jan 2012 23:37:23 -0300

The group reached Plaza Argentina (14,000ft), the Relinchos Valley base camp. They rested and completed a carry to Camp 1, at 16,000 ft. During the hike in they enjoyed a superb view of the Polish Glacier, in the East Face of Mt Aconcagua (picture). This large tongue of snow and ice owes its name to the Polish team that first climbed this side of the mountain, in 1934.
All the climbers in Augusto´s group are doing ok. I will post a dispatch when they move to Camp I. Cheers.

Mission BC completed

Mon, 16 Jan 2012 21:16:15 -0300

After liberating Plaza Argentina from an alien zombie invasion, our heros took a well deserved day off, and performed their famous Haka-style ritual (picture). Unfortunately I am not allowed to reveal how was this photo sent to our Mendoza base (they have strict security policies). The whole team is doing great, in this chapter they ate a monster asado (BBQ) and protected our base camp stuff, Super Chemelo and beautiful Celina.

Captain Martin Molina told me that all the heros are in good shape and highly motivated to initiate the next mission, the altitude game, in a couple of days. I will release more information when allowed to do so. Over.
Nicolás García

Resting at Camp I

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 20:50:46 -0300

Jeff and the team are having a rest day at CI, after a successful carry to Camp II (18.000 ft). Everyone is feeling great. They will do a carry to 6.000m tomorrow!

A new frontier for many of them. I will update when I have news. Cheers

Towards Plaza Argentina

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 15:16:22 -0300

After a successful acclimatization to Mendoza's steaks and Malbec wine, our eleventh expedition of the season left the Los Penitentes lodge today and hit the trail. They walk light, as our mules carry the group supplies. It will take them 3 days to get to base camp (Plaza Argentina, 14,000ft). They will enjoy some awesome views and share an asado (BBQ) with the gauchos (muleteers).

Mike Bradley, from colorado (US) is the leading guide in this 6 climbers group. They will be calling to Mendoza from a sat phone, so I will post more news as they come.

Regards!

Go Augusto!

Wed, 11 Jan 2012 00:52:26 -0300

There´s no thing as a "routinary Aconcagua expedition", but this trip stands out for a particularity that makes us proud: our lead guide Augusto Ortega (from Huaraz, Perú) is going for the 60th Aconcagua summit of his career as a High Mountain Guide. This is a World record! Whether Augusto summits or not, he sets an example to all mountaineers, more for his qualities as person than by his resume as mountaineer. He has a great group, by the way: Analía Lettos (Córdoba, Argentina), and Travis Williams (Colorado, US) are co-guiding. The eight climbers are Shelley and Chet Ridenour, Jeanie and Jim Schaden, Chase Spencer, Tracy Ard, Mike Petterson and Scott Fletcher.

They left Mendoza, Argentina, today, headed for the mountains. They will spend one night at Los Penitentes, in a lodge, and begin the 3 day hike in tomorrow. I attach a picture of the group and one of Augusto at the meeting, today. I will be sending out dispatches when they call me. Regards!

Nicolas

First carry to Camp I

Wed, 11 Jan 2012 00:50:20 -0300

The team rested at base camp Plaza Argentina (13,900 ft) and completed a carry to Camp I (16,000 ft). Now they are back to the comfort of the dining tents and the gourmet cooking of Chemelo and Celina, our base camp staff. I attach a picture of the camp, taken earlier this season. JJ .the guide- plans to move to Camp I tomorrow, to carry gear and food to Camp II (18,000 ft) the next day. I will keep you informed. Regards.

Seventh Summit!

Mon, 09 Jan 2012 18:39:25 -0300

Both AP 6 and AP 7 teams summited Mt Aconcagua today, in very a very windy afternoon. This means that this season Aventuras Patagonicas is having an awesome record: 7 teams to the top, out the 7 expeditions so far. 100% success!

Both groups progressed together in the mt, forming one single big team. Six climbers made it to the top, with guides claudio Beiza and Emiliano Poletti. Congratulations to all of them! They are tired but happy, having a well deserved rest at High Camp, after more than 10 hours out in the wind. But they made the 22,838 ft summit!

The whole group will complete the Aconcagua traverse tomorrow. I will give you more details tomorrow. I attach a nice picture of the summit, from a previous trip. Regards,

Seventh Summit!

Mon, 09 Jan 2012 18:38:06 -0300

The whole group will complete the Aconcagua traverse tomorrow. I will give you more details tomorrow. I attach a nice picture of the summit, from a previous trip. Regards,
Nicolás

Super heros take Aconcagua

Sun, 08 Jan 2012 16:54:18 -0300

Flexi-Girl and Wrestling Balaclava are some of the characters in this chapter (see picture!). They set off on their mission, to climb and traverse the highest mountain this side of the World, today. It is going to be a great trip, judging by the chemistry in the group. The 6 climbers are: Peter Krzanowsky Brian Schultz, Paul Greene, Paul Greene, Colin Levey, Lee-Anne Slater and Angel Taboada. Martín Molina and Javier Carvallo Contreras (UIAGM guide, Everest last year) are the guides.

I cannot diclose more information until the next episode.

Base camp bound

Sun, 08 Jan 2012 16:37:31 -0300

After walking with light backpacks, in beautiful scenery, for three days, our 8th trip of the season should arrive to Plaza Argentina today. The Relinchos Valley base camp, at 14,000ft, is key in our operation. It is where the climbers begin to acclimatize to altitude, the dry environment and the life in tents. The Mendoza city stage went smoothly for this group, with all the flights, hotels and permit steps perfectly coordinated. It is a 10 climbers team, lead by guides JJ Justman (US), Rolo Abaca (Mendoza, Argentina) and Eliana Caamaño (Rosario, Argentina).

The climbers are: Karl Klessig, Tanya Robinson, Jessica Winters, Heidi Scott, Melissa OReilly, Mike Burcombe, Derek Haines, Adrian Gus Pope, Zbigniew Ziwi Waskiewicz and Rob Hudock. I attach a picture of the group, happily posing at the Hyatt. Cheers from Mendoza!

Waiting the weather

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 17:02:25 -0300

As the climbers in our 6th and 7th trip of the season now know by experience, if there wasn´t some days of bad weather in every expedition, it would be Florida, not Aconcagua! Snow kept falling today in the higher camps, and it´s raining below 3.000m.

According to the weather forecast, the sun should shine tomorrow. Both teams are playing the "patience beats arrogance" game, respecting the times of the mountain and gathering mental and physical strength to dash up as soon as the conditions improve.

They completed the carries to Camp II, and should be moving to the 6.000m zone between tomorrow and the next day.

I will let you know. I attach a picture of a stormy base camp. Cheers!

Waiting the weather

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 16:59:47 -0300

They completed the carries to Camp II, and should be moving to the 6.000m zone between tomorrow and the next day.

I will let you know. I attach a picture of a stormy base camp. Cheers!

Towards Camp II

Thu, 05 Jan 2012 17:21:49 -0300

The climbers and guides had to cope with some poor weather these last days, but a spell of clear days appears now in the weather forecast. Everyone in Claudio´s group has got to Camp II, at 17,500 ft. They are all good, eating and resting to get ready for the summit push. I apologize to relatives and friends of the climbers for not posting dispatches before, I know you worry.

But these have been extremely busy days for us here in Mendoza and for the guides up in the mountain, and with the poor weather it was a bit didfficult to talk with them. But everyone is doing great! Here is a picture of the group doing a carry of gear and food to Camp I. Cheers!

Good weather ahead

Thu, 05 Jan 2012 16:16:12 -0300

After some snowy days, which complicated communications, we finally see a long window of clear days, without strong winds. So the team will be able to take advantage of that and move up to Camp II, the Chopper camp, at 17,500 ft. I apologize to relatives and friends of the climbers for not posting dispatches before, I know you worry.

But these have been extremely busy days for us here in Mendoza and for the guides up in the mountain, and with the poor weather it was a bit didfficult to talk with them.

But everyone is strong and focused up there. Eager to have some sunny days to walk to thw summit! I will provide more details tomorrow. Regards and thanks for your patience.

New Year´s Summit

Mon, 02 Jan 2012 16:24:51 -0300

Guide Mike Bradley and three climbers went all the way to the summit of Mt Aconcagua, at 22,834 ft. This makes a record of 5 out of 5 teams summiting this season! 100% success rate so far, so I am sure you will tolerate some marketing here. Back to Mike´s group, they are all going down the hill today, and will be having a proper celebration dinner tomorrow in Mendoza (it´s 40 degrees C here).

They spent New Year´s Eve at 6.000m, at high camp: not many people can have such an experience to tell (on the other hand, It must have been an austere celebration, since I don´t think anybody will risk a hang over at that altitude). I attach a pic of the place, froma previous trip. I will post another dispatch when they get to Mendoza. Regards!

First Summit of the year

Mon, 02 Jan 2012 16:18:45 -0300

Our 4th expedition of the year stood at the top of the Hemisphere yesterday! They stood at 22.834 ft, in the summit of Mt Aconcagua, with the Andes and the Americas below them. Unless you take a ladder, there´s no way to get higher than that in this half of the World, since only in the Himalayas there are higher mountains. Quite a way to begin a year, in my opinion.

I haven´t heard from the guides, but our base camp stuff confirmed that they are all safe and strong, to the point of trying again: in fact two climbers, who did not go to the summit in the first try, have stayed at High Camp and are going for the top today, with a guide. (Tough people). If they remember that I need to post dispatches and call me, I will let you know.

By the way: to Gina´s mother, she asked me to say "Hi Mom". So hi Gina´s Mom. There goes a picture from a previous trip.

Thanks and Happy New Year.

End of a trip beginning of a friendship

Mon, 02 Jan 2012 15:24:50 -0300

The whole team completed their task. They went there, climbed the mountain, went up one way and down the other, came down to the tree-lined city of Mendoza (to 39,7 degrees Celcius), had a big New Year´s Eve dinner; but more important, they became a team. I saw them this morning, moving together and sharing addresses and all that.

My respect to Augusto and Rolo, for their leadership, and to Suzette, Ruth, Paul, Kaushil and Jigar (they get along so well you don´t believe they are brothers) and Ted, for their attitude and strenght.

Thanks to you for reading these dispatches and Happy 2012 (I hope the Maya predictions were wrong and that we have many more climbing seasons..)

Last group of 2011

Thu, 29 Dec 2011 22:52:14 -0300

Eleven climbers and their guides - Emiliano Poletti, Aike Parvex and Nathan Rothe- began hiking today, with the goal of standing atop the highest mountain in the neigborhood: 22,834 ft of stone, ice and sheer power. But first they have to get to base camp, Plaza Argentina, a nice place at 14.0000 ft where our people will spoil them a bit in New Year´s eve. I will be sending out dispatches of their progress in the mountain, each time I receive news from them.

I attach a couple of pics of the group before they left Mendoza (Argentina). Cheers!

A new team and the importance of a positive attitude

Thu, 29 Dec 2011 22:38:39 -0300

Our number 6th Aconcagua trip of the season began with the left food and rapidly recovered and grew stronger. This happened because the airlines lost two duffel bags, full with expensive climbing gear. The owners, Louis Phillippe and Scott, and the other 8 climbers luckily had the best attitude and worked together. We devised a "course of action", the last option of which was renting everything.

When everything else failed and we were at the mountain shop -Louis Phillippe (Luis Felipe by then) was actually trying a down jacket- a call from the airport saved the day. So the two climbers joined their peers and guides (Claudio Beiza, Mariana Gallego, and "Chino" Verón), and happily left the city. They are now in the trail, completing the 3-day hike in to base camp Plaza Argentina (14,000 ft). I attach a picture of the group and one of the happy owners of the recovered bags.

I will be sending dispatches as I get sat phone calls from the slopes of Mt Aconcagua.

Camp II - 16,000ft

Thu, 29 Dec 2011 11:38:34 -0300

The team is at Camp II, the Chopper Camp, at 16,000 ft, ready to move to High Camp (the 6.000m frontier), an important step in the expedition. The long days spent at altitude (Christmas at base camp included) gave their bodies a good acclimatization, so they are ready for the big day. I attach a picture of the group just before leaving Plaza Argentina, our base camp. I will give you a detailed account of their progress in the high regions when I hear from them. Cheers!
Nicolás

Summit and traverse!

Thu, 29 Dec 2011 10:54:34 -0300

Augusto and four climbers of his team made the summit of Mt Aconcagua yesterday! With an altitude of 22,834 ft, this is the highest point in the Andes range, part of the Seven Summits and the highest mountain in the World outside the Himalayas.

All the group -six climbers- reached high camp (6.000m) and is completing the Aconcagua traverse. Big achievement, and another success in a great season so far (three expeditions to the top). They are all happy and giong down to Plaza De Mulas, from where they will hike to the trailhead, just on time to celebrate New Year´s Eve in Mendoza.

Thanks to Augusto and Rolo for leading this trip, and to the climbers for their team spirit. Cheers!

A wave of heat in the High Andes?

Thu, 29 Dec 2011 10:52:52 -0300

...Or just a Christmas Eve hang over + thin air... One way or the oher, these climbers in the picture seem to have decided to come back to Mother Nature, or Pachamama. And yes, they are climbers from the team. A free trip if you guess who they are... (just joking). Ok besides this awesome photographic document, the team is doing great, they are at Camp II (some 18,000 ft), strong and getting ready to go for the summit. Weather is ok and so is the general spirit. Cheers!
Nicolás

Tomorrow is the big day

Tue, 27 Dec 2011 22:44:14 -0300

I just got a call from a happy Augusto. The team has a stronghold at High Camp, an awesome place at 6.000m of altitude (19,680 ft), and they are going for the roof of the Americas tomorrow. Everyone in this group is going to leave camp and do her or his best to get to the 22,834 ft summit, which is already an achievement. I attach a picture of High Camp, from a previous trip, and will send a dispatch tomorrow as soon as I have news. The weather forecast says perfect summit weather.
Good luck to them!
Nicolás

Merry Christmas from your loved ones

Sat, 24 Dec 2011 17:45:39 -0300

I have received an email from the guide Martin, from base camp, with a message to the relatives, friends, loved ones, etc, of the climbers in AP#4 expedition: they say they are all well, highly motivated and happy, and they wish you all a Merry Chistmas. They had the nice gesture of sending a photograph, which I am happy to share with you, of the team relaxing at the dinning tent.
I also wish you a good time, whether you celebrate the holiday or not, on behalf of the Aventuras Patagonicas family.
Nicolás "Santa in shorts and sandals" Garcia

Base camp

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 22:42:47 -0300

Mike and company arrived to Plaza Argentina yesterday, after a smooth hike in. The team is busy eating and resting, getting ready for a carry of gear to Camp I tomorrow, and for the Christmas dinner to be held tomorrow (the 24th) at base camp. Celina and Diego will be the hosts and the two expeditions which are climbing at the same time will share a steak dinner. Weather is ok and the mountain has been friendly so far. I attach a picture of the view of the East Face they had from the trail. Regards
Nicolás

Move to Camp 1

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 22:39:27 -0300

The team has reached camp 1, at 16,000ft, successfully. All of them are ok, and the weather forecast shows sunny days ahead. They will do a carry to Camp II tomorrow. I will pass the news when I hear from them again. Until then!
REgards, Nicolás

Resting at Plaza Argentina

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 22:37:16 -0300

Everyone in the group is doing great. They completed the approach yesterday and are having a rest day in our base camp (picture), after sharing an "asado" -BBQ- wirh the gauchos and seeing the big Polish Glacier from the trail (picture). They will do a carroy of gear tomorrow, and will go back to base camp for a big Christmas party in the mountain. I will keep you posted!
Nicolás

End of the trip

Wed, 21 Dec 2011 00:47:04 -0300

Congratulations to them, thanks to you, and have a good time, whether if you celebrate Christmas or not!

End of the trip

Wed, 21 Dec 2011 00:45:29 -0300

Hi, this dispatch is justo to tell you what most of you already know: your loved ones are back in Mendoza, they had a terrific trip -and a terrific celebration dinner last night-, and everyone is heading home for Christmas. Congratulations to them, thanks to you, and have a good time, whether if you celebrate Christmas or not!

Resting at base camp

Wed, 21 Dec 2011 00:43:51 -0300

Hello to everyone. The team reached Plaza Argentina, the Vacas Valley route base camp, yesterday. Everyone was fine and hungry. They are having a rest day today. During the 3-day approach the saw the imposing East Face (picture), and got to spent time and share an asado (BBQ) with the gauchos who drive the pack mules. Plaza Argentina is a nice spot, up the Relinchos river, at almost 14,000 ft. We have our dining tents there (picture), and Diego and Celina take care of everything. From there the group wil begin the carry-move-rest system to gain altitude. This means that they do a carry of gear and food to the next camp, come back to sleep at a lower altitude, then they actually move to the higher camp, where they spend a rest day to do the proper acclimatization process, then carry to the next camp, move and so on (until there´s no higher place to go, in other terms the summit). When the guide Augusto calls me I will tell you their plans for the Christmas Eve. Until then!

A new Aconcagua experience

Wed, 21 Dec 2011 00:32:38 -0300

Lead by Mike Bradley (Colorado, US) a team of six climbers and assistant guide Jono (Patagonian by choice) left the trailhead today, with two weeks of adventure, hard work and fun ahead. We shared a dinner (picture) in the beautiful city of Mendoza, Argentina, and got to know each other in the team meeting, held in the patio of the Park Hyatt hotel. THen the team left the city and rode a van towards the Andes, in a 3 hour scenic ride. THey spent a night in the lodge at Penitentes (2700m), and started hiking this morning, up the Vacas valley. They walk light, as their gear and food is carried by pack mules. In two more days they will arrive to Plaza Argentina, the base camp at 14,000 ft.

The climbers are: Jorge Alvarado, Corbil Olsen, Brett Mitchell, Greg Buri, Howie Wood and Guilhem Depelley (picture).

More news as they come from the sat phone!

Twelve climbers and a mountain

Wed, 21 Dec 2011 00:28:37 -0300

A new Aventuras Patagonicas expedition left Mendoza (Argentina) yesterday. Nine climbers and three guides joined forces to do their best in the big challenge of climbing the highest mountain in the World outside of the Himalayas range. At 22,834 ft, Mt Aconcagua stands tall in the Central Andes, one head above the lesser peaks that surround it. But the climbers still have to "earn" that awesome view, as they have two weeks in the hill before that...

The team is lead by Martin Molina, from Mendoza, an experienced mountain guide and a fine rock climber. He has done altitude expeditions in the Andes and the Himalayas, and has climbed big walls around the globe and surroundings. With him are Aili Farquhar and Elyzabeth Horan, two strong American guides. The climbers are: Gina King, Scott Prueter, Doug Weaver, Chris Haug, Mary Elan, ever-smiling Mike Ryan, Debbie Kalscheur, Warren King and Joshua McCright.

They left Los Penitentes (2700m) today, where they spent last night. Before that we had a nice dinner in Mendoza (the obvious bottles of Malbec red wine were served), and a team meeting (picture, Martin on the rifght corner). They have a 3-day approach ahead, to get to the base camp PLaza Argentina (almost 14.000ft). I will be posting "chronicles" as my sources pass the information from the field... Until then!

SUMMIT!

Sat, 17 Dec 2011 03:19:18 -0300

Eight climbers stood at 22,834 ft today, looking down to an ocean of lesser peaks in the Andes! They did a great job and climbed all the way to the highest point in the World outside of Asia. The eight climbers and their guides, from AP 1 and AP2 expeditions, were back at high camp happy and tired when I got a phone call from the guide Emiliano. So congratulations to them, all of them will have a very special end of the year. They will complete the Aconcagua traverse tomorrow, by going down by a diferent route to the base camp of the normal route, Plaza de Mulas.

I will post more news tomorrow! THere goes a pic of the summit, from a previous trip.

SUMMIT!

Sat, 17 Dec 2011 03:19:14 -0300

I will post more news tomorrow! There goes a pic of the summit, from a previous trip.

The team left the City

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 17:49:15 -0300

Six climbers and two guides left Mendoza today, at noon. We had a nice and smooth meeting yesterday in the patio of the Park Hyatt (picture), and then went for a great dinner and some Malbec red wine.

Leading the team is Augusto Ortega, from Peru, the man who has stood more times in the summit of Aconcagua in History: I guess he´s been there 55 times. With him is Rolo Abaca, a Mendocinian Guide and Ski instructor, who is at home in our mountain. We have a couple in their honeymoon, Ruth and Paul, from London. Also Suzette, from South Africa, Ted from Colorado (US), and Kaushil and Jigar from Canada. They rode a van to Los Penitentes (3 hours), a small place in the heart of the Central Andes, the last bed and hot shower in two weeks for them. THey will begin their 3-day hike in to base camp tomorrow.

I will be posting news about their progress, every time they call me (every 2 or 3 days).

Regards
Nicolás

Camp II and summit bound

Wed, 14 Dec 2011 18:39:34 -0300

The two expeditions that left on December 4th from Mendoza have been progressing together on the mountain, naturally becoming a single team. So they will "join forces" for the summit push, and therefore I will write common dispatches for all of you relatives, lovers, friends, jealous rivals, etc. (If they save energies, why shouldn´t I¿).
The news are that they are resting at Camp II, at 18,000 beautiful feet of altitude, and will move to High Camp tomorrow. Everyone is strong and focused, the guides said. The weather forecast indicates sunny days, no wind. High Camp, or Cholera Camp, is an awesome eagle`s nest at 6.000m, where sunsets are quite an experience. (See picture, from a previous trip).

They will go for the highest point in the world outside the Himalayas, the 22,834 ft summit, on Friday, if the weather stays good. I will keep you informed.

Saludos desde Mendoza!
Nicolás
Nicolas Garcia / Aconcagua Operations Manager

Camp II and summit bound

Wed, 14 Dec 2011 18:36:02 -0300

Move to Camp I

Mon, 12 Dec 2011 14:57:22 -0300

The group has moved to Camp I (16,000 ft), and they are doing a carry of gear, tents and food to Camp II (18,000 ft). Everyone is well there. The group is smaller now, since three climbers left because they weren´t adapting well to altitude.
I managed to get pictures from the mountain! Here is the team getting helped by mules to cross the Relinchos river, and the chopper carrying gear to base camp: two very different transportation technologies in the same mountain. I will be posting more news when Claudio calls me.

Regards, Nicolás

Camp I

Mon, 12 Dec 2011 14:55:35 -0300

The group moved to Camp I (16.000 ft) on Sunday, and are doing a carry to Camp II (18,000 ft) today. This means that they will pass the 5.000 m line, on day number 10th of the trip. They are thus getting acclimatized to altitude with perfect timing. The general scheme is something like "rest - carry to next camp - move to higher camp- rest", but of course the guides change the schedule according to the weather, the group, etc. Everyone is fine and strong. I attach a photograph of base camp.

More news when the sat phone delivers them...
Regards
Nicolás

Aventuras Patagonicas - Mountain Guides
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Base camp Plaza Argentina

Wed, 07 Dec 2011 19:06:23 -0300

The team made it safely to base camp today. They had a rainy approximation hike in -better to have the bad weather in the approach and "save" the sunny days for the high regions- but they did ok, according to the guide Emiliano. They were greeted at Plaza Argentina (13,900 ft) by Diego and Celina, our BC stuff. Both of them are climbers so they know how to welcome hungry hikers. During the hike in the group was able to wee awesome views, as this one of the Polish Glacier in the pic.

More news soon, (still) for free!

Regards,

Nicolás

Successful hike in

Wed, 07 Dec 2011 19:02:41 -0300

Climbers and guides arrived today at base camp Plaza Argentina (13,900 ft), after a rainy 3-day hike in. The reward was a big welcoming meal, prepared by Diego and Celina in our camp. Everyone is ok and healthy (and tired). They will rest the whole day tomorrow. I attach a picture of the Relinchos valley, that leads to the base camp. The two expeditions that are moving together (AP 1 and AP2 groups) comform a young, motivated team.

I will post more news when they call me again. come back to check!

Regards, Nicolás

Nicolas Garcia / Aconcagua Operations Manager

A new season of Andean dreams

Mon, 05 Dec 2011 16:28:54 -0300

Two teams of climbers left Mendoza (Argentina) yesterday, bound for Mt Aconcagua. This marks the beginning of a new season of Aventuras Patagonicas' expeditions to the highest mountain in the world outside the Himalayas; for us it means a new season of building experiences together with climbers and guides from all over the World.

The two teams -nine climbers and three guides each- will move independently in the mountain, and I will report their progress separately. These dispatches, then, correspond to the group "AP#2", led by Claudio Beiza -an experienced professional guide from Mendoza, who spent many years in Alaska-. Two strong ladies -Analía Lettos, a gifted rock climber from Córdoba (Argentina) and Aili Farquhar, from the US- complete the guiding team (picture).

After the mandatory dose of steak and Malbec red wine, Mendoza`s trademark, they began the three-day hike to base camp Plaza Argentina (almost 14,000 ft) today. Weather is fine.

more news soon! Best wishes from Mendoza,

Nicolás

A new season of Andean dreams

Mon, 05 Dec 2011 16:24:25 -0300

This year we set off with a solid and motivated group of 9 climbers, led by AP guides Emiliano Poletti (Mendoza), Eliana Caamaño (Argentinian too) and James Gustafson (Alaska). They are all in the picture, taken just before leaving Mendoza. This team is going to be "AP#1" in our website. They are already hiking to base camp Plaza Argentina (almost 14,000 ft), where they will arrive the day after tomorrow. The weather is perfect in the mountain.

I will be posting news everytime they call me from their sat phone, so please visit the website form time to time!

Regards,

Nicolás

Last summit of the season

Mon, 28 Feb 2011 15:53:40 -0300

A clear sky greeted the 5 climbers and his guide as they summited Mt Aconcagua (22,834 ft) on Saturday. "We have beautiful weather up here and everyone is happy", said Mike Bradley, calling from the top of this half of the planet. The group went back to High Camp that day and to Plaza de Mulas base camp yesterday, completing the Aconcagua Traverse. Now they are hiking out to the trailhead, to spend one night at the lodge (Los Penitentes), and then back to Mendoza just in time for our Fiesta de la Vendimia (the big wine harvest party). Perfect timing. I attach a picture of the summit ridge, taken by Mike in a previous trip. Congratulations to the team and thanks to all of you for your patience. Regards.

Nicolás García

Tent bound in Camp II

Sat, 26 Feb 2011 12:17:02 -0300

Our last trip of the season is still on the mountain. Some snow and strong winds kept Mike and the team stuck in their tents in Camp II until today. The sun finally made its appearance and they are moving to high camp now, according to what Mike told me this morning. Everyone is doing well and eager to see the world from one of its highest viewpoints...

I am uploading a picture of high camp, to give you an idea of how the place looks like. I will upload another dispatch when the guides decide its time to summit.

Regards

High places

Wed, 23 Feb 2011 17:14:43 -0300

The group is at Camp II (17,700 ft), also known as the Chopper Camp. They are ok and ready to take the final steps of the climb. They made a carry of gear to High Camp, which means they reached the 6.000m zone. Now they are going to move to High camp, rest there one day and then go fo it. Mike said over the sat phone that probably Saturday or Sunday it´s their day. I will let you know when they call me. Regards

Today, Mike and Rollo, our guides put 5 members of the Aconcagua Man Team on the summit of Aconcagua, an emotional and exhausting endeavor and each of us is better for it. The typical summit success rate for Aconcagua is roughly 30 percent for all groups that attempt it. Today this team shattered that statistic.

Tonight we have Ramen noodles and descend with our gear to base camp tomorrow on the other side of the mountain. Stay tuned and thank you for your prayers. We felt them all day long.

Summit bound

Mon, 31 Jan 2011 18:24:51 -0300

As I write this dispatch in Mendoza, the team is getting ready to try and get some rest before leaving high camp and go for the summit.
They spent one day acclimatizing and waiting for the ideal weather, and tomorrow they will rise before the sun, force some breakfast into their nervous stomachs and start climbing by headlamps, seeing only their breath in the cold and a little circle of the path ahead. Then the sun will appear, warming them and revealing a unique landscape, that few people gets to experience. If the summit happens or not will probably become less important then.

Here are a few words taken from Stephen McGhee's blog, which depict the emotions in the team, and a picture of High Camp:

"We are now in a position for the summit. High camp is at 19,200 feet. None of us have ever been at this altitude and we can see the earth's horizon. It is breathtaking! I can't explain how stunningly beautiful it is.
This is a monumental victory for the team. The victory has not come without a price. All of us have experienced extreme headaches, nausea, countless sleepless nights, etc. While all of this is normal, to a degree, for a high altitude climb we have suffered to get this far.

We have grown, realized, cried and expanded beyond compare. At times we climb in silence. At other times we laugh, joke and have a hell of a time".

Nicolas Garcia / Aconcagua Operations Manager

Moving to 15,750 ft

Mon, 31 Jan 2011 17:25:44 -0300

One reluctant sat phone did not keep the team from working their way up the mountain, completing the base camp stage to move on to Camp I and tomorrow to Camp II, at 15,750'. This morning, our guide Martin Molina finally got a good clear sky, with plenty of satellites, and gave me a long call. All members of the expedition are doing great and weather has been awesome so far. They all get along fine and are higly motivated, Martin said. They did a carry of gear and food to Camp II, called the Chopper Camp. The weather forecast shows sunny days ahead, with the usual strong winds higher in the 6.000m zone. I apologize for the lack of communications and upload a nice picture of the East face of mighty Aconcagua. Regards.

Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

To Camp II- Beyond 5.000 meters!

Thu, 27 Jan 2011 21:09:51 -0300

In a great team work, the group completed the base camp stage and moved to a new challenge, the carrying-moving system used in big mountains. (One day you carry part of your gear and food to the next higher camp, you come down to sleep, next day you move to the higher camp and sleep there, next day you rest and sleep at the new camp, next you start the process again to a higher altitude). Mike, Sthephen and the others are now at Camp I, at 4800m or 15,750 ft. They did their portering to Camp II and are moving there tomorrow, so the team will pass the 5.000m barrier, to have their temporary home at 5.400m -17,700 ft. More news soon!

Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Fri, 21 Jan 2011 11:08:51 -0300

The 10 mountaineers of our 12th expedition of the season set foot in the trail today. The aspect that inmediately stands out about this trip, and sets it apart, is that the climbers were already a team months before coming to Aconcagua. They also share a purpose which goes beyond the climbing, the "Aconcagua Man Project".

In the words of writer Stephen McGhee, creator of the project, in his blog: "The Aconcagua Man Project is a nine month program that was created for 6 unique men that are willing to push themselves to the edge of their physical, emotional, mental and spiritual boundaries. The culmination of this "Kick Ass" Journey has them attempting to summit the highest mountain in the world outside of Asia...The Mighty Aconcagua".

The climbers in the team are McGhee, Eric Wiseman, Troy Wagner, Gregory Aden, Jeff Paterson, Denis Carruth and Vince Roland. They walk with an outstanding team of guides: Mike Bradley (Colorado, US); Augusto Ortega (Perú) and Rolo Abaca (Mendoza, Argentina).
They have a three-day hike ahead, to get to Plaza Argentina base camp. I will be uploading dispatches with their progress on the hill.

Stay tuned!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

On top of (half) the world

Thu, 20 Jan 2011 09:50:45 -0300

The awesome number of seven climbers and two guides stood at the highest point of this half of the globe (22,834 ft) yesterday! Larry gave a call from his satellite phone, to say everything went well and that they were back at high camp. Everyone is happy and tired. They have a walk down to Plaza de Mulas (the Normal route base camp) ahead, to complete the Aconcagua traverse. And after a good dinner and night there, they will hike out to Penitentes (trailhead), to be back in Mendoza by Friday. Congratulations to a brave team. I attach a picture, from a previous season, to give you an idea of the achievement.

Regards!

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

At home at 6,000 m

Mon, 17 Jan 2011 21:55:48 -0300

The entire group has made a stronghold at high camp, also called Colera Camp, also called White Rocks camp, at 6,000m of altitude -19,685'-. Guide Larry Holmgreen said everything is ok. They might try the summit tomorrow or wait one day, it will depend on the weather up there. I attach a picture of the camp. I will let you know as soon as we know. Regards!

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

Going up

Mon, 17 Jan 2011 21:52:40 -0300

The team completed the acclimatization and rest stage at base camp and is moving up. They carried their gear and food to Camp I, and then moved to that camp yesterday. Camp I is at 15,750 ft. There goes a pic of the trail, from a previous trip. I will kep you posted.

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

A new challenge

Mon, 17 Jan 2011 21:49:45 -0300

Seven climbers and three guides began a new adventure yesterday, as they left the valley and set foot in the trail. It is AP number 11 expedition of the season, a strong and happy team (see picture) led by Mendocinian guide Claudio Beiza, with British guide Anne Parmenter and local guide Mariana Gallego. THey have a 3 day approach to base camp ahead. I will be uploading dispatches as they call me from their sat phone. Regards!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Camp I - 15,900 ft

Wed, 12 Jan 2011 17:46:20 -0300

Everyone made it to base camp Plaza Argentina in great shape. They rested there, enjoying the hospitality of Betiana and Mariana -our Plaza Argentina staff-, and then moved to Camp I yesterday. Weather is fine and team spirit too. I am uploading a picture of the trail to base camp, so you can see the Polish Glacier. More dispatches when news come from the sattelites! Regards

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

See you at the summit

Tue, 11 Jan 2011 17:54:06 -0300

A gathering of 15climbers and guides from Aventuras Patagonicas took place today in the highest square meter on this side of the planet. The selected guests shared impressions regarding the route and the remarkable views from the summit of Mt Aconcagua, at 22,824 ft.

All of them are part of AP#7 and AP#8 expeditions, and we are proud of their success in climbing Aconcagua. They had an excellent day, result of the wisdom of waiting for the right window instead of rushing up the mountain.

Everyone is happy and strong. They are back at high camp now. They will complete the Aconcagua traverse tomorrow, by going down to a different base camp than the used in the way up. THen they will hike to the trailhead on thursday, and ride to Mendoza on friday. Congratulations! There goes a pic of the trail to the summit. Regards.

See you at the summit

Tue, 11 Jan 2011 17:50:11 -0300

A solid team

Tue, 11 Jan 2011 09:50:32 -0300

A healthy, steak and Malbec fed group left Mendoza yesterday, headed for Aconcagua. The eight climbers and three guides (Mili, Matías and Pablo) looked like a team from the moment they met for the expedition meeting at the Hyatt. THey began the 3-day hike in to base camp Plaza Argentina yesterday. They shared yet another barbecue last night, gaucho style, in the first camp (Pampa de Leñas). Everyone is doing great, according to lead guide Mili Poletti. I am uploading a picture of them, standing at the Hyatt right before they rode to Penitentes (close to the trailhead). I will upload news soon! Regards

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

Summit push today

Tue, 11 Jan 2011 09:43:52 -0300

After wisely remaining tent bound one day at high camp (6000m- 19,685 ft), waiting the right weather, the group will attempt the summit today. This means that today they were out and walking before sunrise, before their relatives and friends read this -and certainly before I woke up this warm morning in Mendoza. The team will be cold, probably, for an hour or so, until the sun warms their bodies and reveals the unforgettable landscapes of the highest regions in the planet.

Summit or not, they will be back a the tents this afternoon, to complete the Aconcagua traverse tomorrow (they will go down by a different route than the one they took in the way up). I will let you know as soon as I get the call. In the meantime, there goes a pic of the place, taken a couple of seasons ago. REgards!

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

Aconcagua bound

Thu, 06 Jan 2011 17:39:59 -0300

A new expedition left Mendoza yesterday, after the usual welcoming dinner and climbing permit paperwork in the morning. The 10 climbers and guides Larry Holmgreen, Aike Parvex and Eliana Camaño spent the night in Penitentes, 3 km from the trailhead, and began the 3-day hike in to base camp today. I attach a picture of the group, posing at the Hyatt hotel, before the 180 km ride to Penitentes. I will be posting dispatches when they call me from the mountain. Regards.

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

Camp I

Thu, 06 Jan 2011 17:36:04 -0300

Summit!

Sat, 01 Jan 2011 18:13:56 -0300

In a big team success, the group reached Aconcagua's 22,834 ft summit yesterday. Six climbers got to the highest point in the hemisphere. Guide Augusto Ortega called me from the summit, and he sounded happy and proud of the team. They came back to High camp safely, and are completing the traverse to the Normal route base camp, Plaza de Mulas, today. They will hike to the trailhead tomorrow (Sunday), and finally come to Mendoza in the van on Monday. I will keep you informed. Regards

Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Half a group and no picture

Wed, 29 Dec 2010 23:45:46 -0300

December 29th

Thanks to the Northern hemisphere's winter conditions, our Polish Glacier group had to become two expeditions: four of the eight climbers left today for the 3-day hike in to base camp, while the other four are in Mendoza, recovering from a nightmare of airports and missing duffel bags, and will leave tomorrow. This almost doubles the logistics of a trip (tents, transfers, food, mules and the like). And it left us without the group picture we like to post at the beginning of each trip.

Apart from that, the team led by guides Martin Molina (Mendoza) and Ben Adkinson (US) looks strong and apt to the clallenge. We'll celebrate when both parties meet at Plaza Argentina, the 4.200m base camp.

Regards!

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

A lucky team

Wed, 29 Dec 2010 23:41:25 -0300

Despite the nightmare of cancelled and delayed flights that make our logistics work as challenging as the high altitude chores, this team of ten climbers and three guides left Mendoza and headed for the trailhead on time. Australian guide Jeff Sandiford and local guides Mariana Gallego and Gabriel Moretta lead the pack. They began the 3-day hike in to base camp today, after some acclimatization to steaks and Malbec in Mendoza. I am uploading a nice picture of the happy team. I will be writing dispatches every time they call me from the mountain. Stay tuned!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Camp II - 17,716 ft

Wed, 29 Dec 2010 23:37:14 -0300

December 29 The whole group made it to Camp II and the next day they did a carry of gear to High Camp (6.000m, 19,680 ft). This means good acclimatization for the last stage. They are resting and waiting for some snowy days to pass, and will go for the summit in two or three days. I will let you know, when guide Augusto Ortega calls me. I Attach a picture of the awesome place up there. I will write to you soon
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Camp II - 17,716 ft

Wed, 29 Dec 2010 23:35:28 -0300

Fri, 24 Dec 2010 19:42:54 -0300

All the climbers and guides are happy at base camp. Guide Augusto sounded relaxed over the sat phone, and he said they were ready to spend Christmas at Plaza Argentina (we celebrate Christmas with a big dinner the night before, the 24th). They have completed a carry to Camp I, and after the party they will head towards the altitude part of the expedition. I will keep you posted! I attach a picture of the mountain, from a previous trip. Have a Merry Christmas. Regards,
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

High celebration

Fri, 24 Dec 2010 19:38:15 -0300

Here in Argentina the tradition is to celebrate Christmas -for those who do celebrate- with a big dinner the night before, this is today (December 24). And this is what the climbers and guides in this group are going to do tonight. Betiana, our base camp manager, said he has something very special for tonight. There are several expeditions at base camp, so it will probably be a big party. (To the wifes and husbands waiting at home: it's not such a big party after all, and noone wants a hang over at 13,800').

The weather forecast show a good window of clear, quiet days, and everyone up there is strong and motivated. I attach a picture of our dining tents, form last year. Regards and Merry Christmas!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Camp I

Thu, 23 Dec 2010 15:00:58 -0300

The team moved to Camp I, at 15,750', today. They did a carry of gear before, so the altitude gain shoud not be an issue. The whole system of carrying-resting.moving to higer camps is based in years of experience working at high altitude. Everyone is fine up there. One climber wasn´t acclimatizing properly so he preferred to ride a mule down to the trailhead (I´d guess it is more comfortable to climb Everest barefooted than riding a mule that´s in a hurry to get back home to grass and gossip with the other mules). The picture is from a previous trip. I will keep you informed in the next episode. Regards.

nicolás García

AP Mendoza

Base camp

Wed, 08 Dec 2010 23:22:36 -0300

The climbers reached the 6.000m (19,685 ft) frontier! Everyone is ok, strong and motivated. They are finishing the carrying-moving routine, which consists of doing carries to higher camps, then sleeping in lower altitude, then moving the camp to the place where they had taken the carry, then resting, then repeating the process but at higher altitude. Busy days, goods for adapting the body and the mind to the strange atmosphere of the high regions of the world; only in the Himalayas it is possible to go higher than in this expedition, as Aconcagua is the biggest hill this side of the planet! I don´t have the summit push day yet, I hope to know in one or two days. Until then!

Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Stage 1 completed

Wed, 08 Dec 2010 22:35:50 -0300

The group is taking a well deserved rest day at base camp today. They completed the hike-in yesterday. They arrived to Plaza Argentina (4200m - 13,800ft) tired but happy, and were greeted by a solid dinner by Betiana and Mariana, our base camp team. I attach a picture of the trail, from a previous trip. Tomorrow they will do a carry of gear and food to camp 1, and will have their first contact with high altitude (5.000m). I will be sending more info soon!

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

Towards base camp

Mon, 06 Dec 2010 09:50:10 -0300

After the mandatory dose of Argentinean steak & Malbec red wine in Mendoza, the merry 13 people team of Aventuras Patagonicas' second trip of the season left town. Martin Molina (Mendoza), Ben Adkinson (Colorado, US) and Claudio "Cacho" Beiza (Mendoza) are the guides. Plenty of experience there. In the 10 climbers side too, with a predominance of Canadian clients in this group. They set foot in the trailhead yesterday, and are now hiking towards the 4.200 m base camp called Plaza Argentina. They will arrive there tomorrow, if all goes well. They will enjoy some views of the East face (Polish Glacier) in the way.

I will post more info soon. Regards!
Nicolás

Camp I and going strong

Mon, 06 Dec 2010 09:23:19 -0300

The group has initiated the altitude stage of the climb. They left base camp properly fed & rested, in good mood, and headed towards Camp I (4.800m - 15,750 ft). From there they completed a carry of gear and food to Camp II, which means they surpassed the 5.000 m frontier! Everyone is doing great, according to Mike, and according to the forecast the weather will be good in the next days. More details in the next episode...

Nicolás García
Mendoza

Awesome group

Wed, 01 Dec 2010 18:02:04 -0300

The team made it to Plaza Argentina base camp (13,800 ft approx) today. Mike called via sat phone and said "Everyone is doing great, this is an awesome group". They completed the hike in succesfully -with some vies of the Polish GLacier, as seen in the picture (from a previous trip)-. They will rest one day and then begin the carrying-acclimatization process. I will keep you posted!

Regards, Nicolás

First trip of the season

Mon, 29 Nov 2010 14:40:19 -0300

With a truly international team of five climbers and two guides, we launched our first Aconcagua expedition of the 2010-2011 season yesterday!

The US, Norway, Ireland, Australia and Argentina are the nationalities represented in the team. Guides Mike Bradley (Colorado, US) and Rolo Abaca (Mendoza, Argentina), are in charge of this first trip, via the Ameghino Route.

They had a day to relax in Mendoza, where the climbers enjoyed the local Hyatt and dinner at a fine steak restaurant, did their gear check, got the climbing permit and participated in the group meeting. (See picture).

Then the team rode the three hours into the Andes to get to Penitentes, the small ski resort from where we begin the hike in to base camp. There they met the gentle and sophisticated creatures called mules (kidding, they are mean, tough, wild and stubborn animals), spent one night to gradually acclimatize to altitude, and finally began the hike in today.

They are going to be at base camp Plaza Argentina by Wednesday, if everything goes ok. I will be reporting their progress from the office in Mendoza, every two or three days (or every time I get sat phone calls from Mike).

More news from the mountain coming soon...
Nicolás

Team success: summit! - Dispatch 5

Sun, 28 Feb 2010 22:40:58 -0300

We are proud to inform that the team got to the summit of Mt Aconcagua yesterday! (Saturday). Seven climbers and three guides stood there at 6962m -22,834 ft-, at the highest point in the Southern Hemisphere. They are all well and completed the traverse to Plaza de Mulas (the Normal route base camp) today. Guide Mike Bradley told me that they felt the earthquake that affected Chile, some four hours before they left High camp for the summit. "It wasn´t a big deal here", said Mike over the sat phone. We are expecting the team to be back in Mendoza by March 2nd. Here we will celebrate with steaks and Malbec red wine. This is the last trip of the season. This was a tough summer in Aconcagua, due to extremely bad weather, so this big team success comes as an awesome way to put an end to the season. Congratulations to all the climbers and guides!

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

High camp - dispatch 4

Thu, 25 Feb 2010 12:16:21 -0300

The team is moving to the 6,000m frontier tomorrow! They will move to high camp, or Colera, which is at 6,000m or 19,685 ft. Everyone is fine up there, Mike said. They plan to go for the summit on Saturday -the best day according to the weather forecast. We keep our fingers crossed for a beautiful summit day. I atach a picture of high camp -life is slow there, you think it twice before moving! Regards form Mendoza

Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Camp I - dispatch 3

Mon, 22 Feb 2010 14:25:00 -0300

After resting in base camp, the team moved succesfully to Camp I. There they will begin the high altitude acclimatization process, by doing carries of common gear and food to Camp II, above 5,000m. Mike said averyone is fine. One climber who wasn´t acclimatizating well enough, so he stayed at base camp one more day, to see if he could continue with the climb. I will keep you posted. Regards, Nicolás García AP Mendoza

Resting at base camp

Thu, 18 Feb 2010 18:07:49 -0300

The expedition made it to base camp Plaza Argentina (14,000ft approx) yesterday. All climbers are guides are ok and enjoying a rest day. During the hike-in they shared an "asado criollo" -gaucho barbecue- with the muleteers. The group also had a nice view of the Polish Glacier (picture), from the trail. Leading guide Mike Bradley takes the time to call me every night from his sat phone -thank you Mike I appreciate it!- He says the group is awesome and weather is fine so far. I attach a picture of the East side of Aconcagua, as seen from the trail, with the Polish Glacier in the back.

Regards from Mendoza!

Nicolás García AP Mendoza

Hiking to base camp

Wed, 17 Feb 2010 15:49:53 -0300

A group of nine climbers and three guides left Penitentes (small ski resort close to Mt Aconcagua) yesterday. They began their three day hike in to Plaza Argentina (14,000 ft aprox), the Ameghino route base camp. Mike Bradley (US) is the leading guide, and Augusto Ortega (Perú) and Eliana Caamaño (Argentina) are the other guides. The climbers are from places ranging from Dubai to Colorado. Due to the snow stroms in the US, getting the team together in Mendoza was a logistic challenge! But all the mountaineers finally got to enjoy a night at the Mendoza Park Hyatt and a welcoming dinner. Then they all got together in Penitentes (picture) and by the time they hitted the trail they were a solid team, Mike reported via sat phone today. I will be sending dispatches to keep you updated.

Regards from Mendoza
Nicolás García AP Mendoza

Summit! - Dispatch 4

Sat, 13 Feb 2010 23:00:53 -0300

Five climbers and three guides summited today. Congratulations to all the team, that made this achievement possible. The whole group is happy at High Camp now. They started the day very early, with strong winds, but kept on going. Sometime after noon they got to the 22,834 summit, the highest point in the Americas! Thy descended safely to High Camp, where they will spend the night. Tomorrow they will go down by the other side of the mountain, to the base camp of the normal route (Plaza de Mulas). On sunday they will complete the trek to the trailhead, and they will sleep at the lodge in Penitentes. They will be back to Mendoza on Monday, to celebrate. Great team work!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

High camp

Wed, 10 Feb 2010 17:02:49 -0300

Guide Jacob and the team are moving to High Camp tomorrow, and they will go for the top on Friday. They are now at Chopper camp, or Camp II (18,000 ft). Everyone is fine and the weather forecast shows excellent days ahead. High Camp is at 6000m (19,685 ft). It is a rocky plateau, where some white boulders give some protection from the high winds. The place it's also called White Rocks or Colera Camp. ON summit day, the team will face a cold walk in the morning, before sunrise, with headlamps on and zippered parkas. But then the sun will comfort them and reveal an awesome landscape. I will be updating the information more often now, in the final stage of the climb. Regards from Mendoza
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Back to the city

Wed, 10 Feb 2010 17:00:40 -0300

The eight climbers and three guides made it back to Mendoza today. They spent a very bad night at high camp, where 90 km per hour winds made it very dangerous to try the summit. So the entire team decided to complete the traverse of the Aconcagua massif: they went from High camp to the normal route base camp, Plaza de Mulas, and then hiked to the normal route trailhead, Horcones. They celebrated yesterday with huge steaks at Don Mario (a fine restaurant). The group was tired but happy, and in spite of the weather they accomplished a great trip. Congratulations!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Base camp

Sat, 06 Feb 2010 09:25:03 -0300

The team made it to base camp successfully. They completed the 3-day trek to Plaza Argentina (4200m), and are having a rest day there. The climbers and the guides are fine. It is a little windy, but they are still low to worry about the weather. They had some awesome views from the trail. I attach a picture (from a previous trip) of the East side of the mountain, from the campsite Casa de Piedra. You can see the Polish Glacier in the back. Next step for the team is to begin the acclimatization process to higher altitudes. They do this by "climbing high and sleeping low", this is spending some days carrying gear and food to the higher camps, then spending the night in the lower camps. I will be updating the dispatches as Jacob calls me. Until then!
Nicolas Garcia
AP Mendoza

Beyond 5000 m

Sat, 06 Feb 2010 09:19:29 -0300

Wesley and the team are ok at Chopper camp, or camp II. Altitude is 5400m. They took a rest day there and will do a carry of gear and food to High Camp, which is at 6,000m. So they are entering the high regions of the world! Everyone is fine, weather is a little windy but clear skies. I will keep you informed of their progress -if the guides call me from their sat phone. There goes a picture from a previous trip. Regards.
Nicolas Garcia
AP Mendoza

Acclimatization

Mon, 01 Feb 2010 12:53:27 -0300

This update is to let you know that the group left the good life at base camp to face the higher camps in the hill. No more haute cuisine... They are carrying gear and food to Camp II (17.800 ft), and getting used to the 5,000m and 6,000 m thin air. The team is fine and weather looks good. I attach a picture of the place (from a previous trip). I will be posting more details soon. Regards

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

Summit!

Mon, 01 Feb 2010 12:51:35 -0300

The climbers and their guides made it to the highest point in the world outside of the Himalayas, the top of Mt Aconcagua. Four of the clients got to the 22,834 summit. Everyone came back to high camp extremely tired, but happy.

Then yesterday they completed the circumvalation of the masif, as they went down by the normal route, that leads to base camp Plaza de Mulas. Today they will trek to the trailhead, and spend the night at Pênitentes, a lodge with showers, coffee, beer, tv; new things after so many days in the wild.

Patience game

Sat, 23 Jan 2010 20:34:26 -0300

The expedition is at Camp I, waiting for the weather to improve before they move up the mountain. It has been snowy the last days, but without wind and according to the weather forecast the upper regions of Aconcagua are clearer now. They did their carry to Camp II, also called the Chopper camp. Everyone feels fine! I will give you more details as Mike calls me. I atach a picture of Aconcagua by Mike, from last season. Regards

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

Working up the slopes

Sat, 23 Jan 2010 12:37:27 -0300

The expedition led by Mike Bradley is doing well up the mountain. They completed the hike in exactly as scheduled -with some good views of the Polish Glacier (picture)- included-. The 11 climbers and 3 guides rested at base camp Plaza Argentina (13,800 ft) for a day, then did a arry of gear to camp I. They had a minor issue with the sat phone, and that is why we did not send a dispatch before. Mike says everyone is fine and that motivation is high. "We are working as a solid team by now", he told me over the sat phone. This stage of the climb is very important, because it is when the climbers complete the acclimatization process. They do that by progressing up the mountain step by step: doing carries to higher altitudes, then sleeping at lower altitude, and just then moving to the next camp, where they rest, carry again, then move up. Patience is the key.

I will send more updates as they call me. Regards!

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

BIG team success!

Sat, 23 Jan 2010 12:32:11 -0300

8 climbers and three guides made it to the 22,834 ft summit the highest spot in the whole hemisphere and the highest mountain in the World outside the Himalayas. Guide Jacob called from High Camp when they returned. Everyone was tired but deeply happy. Now they will complete the traverse of the mountain, by going down by another side of the mountain. They will descend to the Normal route base camp, Plaza de Mulas, tomorrow. Then they will trek to the trailhead on Sunday, spend one night in the lodge there and come back to Mendoza on Monday. We are very proud of this huge team effort and look forward to share a good steak (and wine) with them. I attach a pic of the summit (from last season), so you can share the emotion. I will still send one more update when they et out of the mountain. Until then!

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

Carry to 6000m- the final stage is on its way

Wed, 20 Jan 2010 15:08:07 -0300

The expedition is doing great! They move as a solid team and are highly motivated, according to the report we just received from Jacob. They are resting at Camp II "Chopper Camp" now, at 17,700 ft. The group has already experimented real high altitude; they made a carry of gear and food to High Camp, the "Colera Camp", which is at 6000m (19,685 ft). The 8 remaining climbers (one person was not acclimatizing well and had to remain at lower altitude) and three guides are super strong, says Jacob. They plan to move to High Camp tomorrow and go for the summit on Friday or Saurday. Weather forecast is good for both days. I attach a picture (from a previous trip) of High Camp. Keep your fingers crossed and wait for more dispatches...

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

Chopper camp

Wed, 20 Jan 2010 15:06:01 -0300

Hola a todos,

Jacob "the Boss" Schmidtz called from his sat phone. The group is at CII, called "the chopper camp",at 18.000 ft approx. "Everyone is perfecto, it´s a pretty strong team", were his words.

They will do a carry to CIII, then rest for one day. Then go for the final push. I am attaching a pic of CII. At that altitude you really get a taste of this big mountain, as wind and cold and of course altitude show their power. Bu it is also where the most awesome landscape, clear skies of the purest blue, and the real dimensions of the place appear. And when the leadership and knowledge of the guides provide the safety margin that we are proud of.

I will post news soon, stay tuned...

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

Summit and Polish Glacier climbed-100% success

Mon, 18 Jan 2010 11:18:31 -0300

All the climbers and guides made it to the 22,841 ft top of Mt Aconcagua, by the technical Polish Glacier route. This is an outstanding achievement, because everyone completed absolutely all the goals: to enjoy a safe and solid expedition, to climb the mountain all the way to the summit and to do it by a demanding route, the East side glacier. Special congratulations to climbers Mike Danaher, Patrick Flynn, Christopher Howard and James Watson, and to the guide Martin Molina. It is demanding to handle roped climbing at that altitude. I am attaching pictures of the glacier, from a previous trip, so you can see the place. Also a nice picture of the summit ridge. The group is coming back to Mendoza tomorrow. Regards.
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Summit!!!

Mon, 18 Jan 2010 10:52:37 -0300

Three climbers and guide Cacho Beiza got to the summit yesterday! I do not have the names yet. As important, or more, than the summit, it´s the fact that all 10 climbers made it to high camp (6000m!) as a solid group and will complete the Aconcagua traverse. Leading guide María José is happy and says this is an excellent expedition so far. The group is now going down to the Normal Route base camp, Plaza de Mulas (13,950 ft). THey will get to the trailhead tomorrow (Tuesday) and should be back in Mendoza by Wednesday. Congratulations to all!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

The trip is on

Mon, 18 Jan 2010 10:41:17 -0300

Eleven climbers and three guides began a new Aconcagua adventure yesterday. They left Mendoza well rested and well fed (thanks to the combination of the Park Hyatt's luxuries, Argentinian steak and plenty of Malbec red wine). A solid group, as you can see in the pictures, they heades towards Los Penitentes yesterday and began the hike in today. Los Penitentes is a small ski resort, used in summer as starting point for Aconcagua expeditions. The altitude is 8,860 ft. The three-day hike in ends in base camp Plaza Argentina (13,780 ft).The leading guide is Mike Bradley, a seasoned guide based in Colorado. Augusto Ortega (from Perú, with just 53 Aconcagua summits!) and local credit Eliana Caamaño complete the guiding team. The climbers are: Trent Evink, Jeff Westerfield, Crl Linden, Zaheer Carolia, Alison Spencer, Warren Hynes, Ryan Crago, Amalia Franceschini, Richard "Dick" Field, Wui Kin Chin and Matthew Gabriele.

I will be updating information as these guys call me from their sat phone. Greetings from Mendoza! (37 Celcius degrees and so dry).

Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Rest day at Plaza Argentina

Thu, 14 Jan 2010 13:40:59 -0300

The team completed the hike in beautifully. I just received a sat phone call from guide Jacob "the Boss" Schmidt. "Everything is perfect" were his words -as usual-. The trail to base camp Plaza Argentina (13,450 ft) has some imposing views. Here is a picture of the trail (from a previous trip). The group will do a carry to camp I tomorrow. I will keep you posted. Regards,

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

Approaching the glacier

Thu, 14 Jan 2010 13:34:03 -0300

Guide Martín and the climbers are at base camp now, and they will move to Camp I on the Polish Glacier route tomorrow. All 4 climbers feel strong and are well rested and fed. We hope the weather and the glacier conditions stay good, so thy can keep their steady progress. I will send detailed updates as they gain altitude. I attach a picture of the way to Camp I, from a previous season.

Regards,

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

towards Camp II

Thu, 14 Jan 2010 13:32:19 -0300

The team is in great shape! Everyone is ok and motivated. After some acclimatization and carries up the slopes, the expedition is facing the high regions. They will move to Camp II -called the Chopper camp- tomorrow. The altitude of this campsite is 17,800 ft. Then it is up to the guides and the team to decide their strategy for the summit push. We will keep you informed. I am uploading a pic from a previous trip. Regrads,

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

Back in town

Thu, 14 Jan 2010 13:29:48 -0300

After two brave summit atempts, the group completed the Aconcagua traverse and came back to Mendoza yersterday. They tried the summit twice from High Camp, but the intense cold and wind made it unsafe to push on. "We saw climbers going down with their noses white as that wall", one AP climber told us. The group did complete the traverse, which means they did both sides of the mountain. Then we had a solid Argentinean meat and red wine dinner last night. Everyone is ok and it was a great group. Congratulations to them!

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

Hike in to base camp - Dispatch 1

Tue, 12 Jan 2010 09:50:21 -0300

The expedition began the 3-day hike in to base camp today. Before that, the nine climbers and three guides shared a meeting and a welcoming diner in
Mendoza, and then a night at Penitentes (small ski resort located at 2700m, some 4 miles from the trailhead). Expert guide Jacob Schmidt is leading, Alaskan Forrest Wagner and Patagonian Fermin Avila complete the guiding team. We celebrated Forrest 29th birthday the night before they left, and he got good local Malbec wines as a present fom clients of his last trip! I attach a pic of Forrest and one of the team, at the Mendoza Hyatt before leaving (still looking well...)
Regards
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

View of the Polish Glacier - Dispatch 2

Mon, 11 Jan 2010 11:02:51 -0300

The 4 climbers guided by Martín are well and resting at base camp. To get there, they hiked for three days in the scenic Vacas and Relinchos valleys. From the campsite Casa de Piedra they could spot their goal, the Polish Glacier (picture). This glaciar tongue runs down the East face of Aconcagua, and it is a route of medium technical difficulty. It was opened in 1934 by a very tough group of Polish climbers.
Base Camp Plaza Argentina (13,940 ft) has dining tents, cook, beer, etc; it is an intermediate step between the urban life and the tent life!
I will send more information as the team progresses up the slopes. Until then!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Rest day at Base Camp - Dispatch 2

Mon, 11 Jan 2010 11:01:44 -0300

The team completed succesfully the hike in yesterday. They are having a rest day today. In the approximation trek they got to see one of the most spectacular views of Aconcagua, the Polish Glacier (East Face). The Ameghino Valley route, which all Aventuras Patagonicas expeditions take, presents many advantages: it is less crowded than the Normal route, it has more wildlife and it allows for better acclimatization.
The group is ok and enjoying the comforts of base camp, at 4200 m. I attach a picture of the trek, taken last season. I
Regards, Nicolás

Nicolas Garcia / Aconcagua Operations Manager

Big day tomorrow - Dispatch 4

Thu, 07 Jan 2010 11:09:28 -0300

Before the sun rises, the team is going to leave the warmth of the sleeping bags, force some tea into their stomachs and face the hostile atmosphere of the 6.000m high camp. Even before that, the guides will be ready, melting snow and preparing everything for the summit push. Then it is one or two hours of really cold walking, usually in silence, with headlamps on, and every part of the body covered. But then the sun goes up, warming climbers and revealing the awesome landscape around. THen is the roof of this hemisphere! -highest hill in the world outside the Himalayas-.
Seven of the climbers will try the summit with guide Calvin. I attach a previous picture so you can see the place. I will write with news tomorrow!
Regards
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Carry to high camp

Thu, 07 Jan 2010 11:09:26 -0300

The climbers and the 4 guides -Calvin, Eliana, Marco and Marian- are in Camp II, the Chopper Camp (17700 ft). They are having a rest day now, after some windy days (and nights) . Tomorrow they will do a carry of gear and food to High Camp. This means they will get to 6000 meters! (19,685 ft). After this comes the move to high camp to sleep, and try the summit next day. But it all depends on the group condition, the weather and the guides' desitions up there. I will track their progress and keep you posted. Regards
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Towards the mountain

Thu, 07 Jan 2010 11:04:38 -0300

Climbers Mike Danaher, Patrick "Steve" Flynn, Christopher Howard and James "Dan" Watson and guide Martín Molina left for Mt Aconcagua yesterday. After a night in a lodge at the foot of the mountain, they began the hike in to base camp today. They will have an "asado" -barbecue- gaucho style tonight, in the trail. The approximation trek has some very nice views of their target, the Polish Glacier route. This looks like a strong team! We will be updating the information as we recieve calls from the mountain, via sat phone. We also haved radio communication with base camp (Plaza Argentina). I attach a picture of the group, just before leaving Mendoza. Regards,
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

City behind - mountain ahead

Thu, 07 Jan 2010 10:55:16 -0300

After a couple of busy days dealing with planes, hotels, permits and minor hang overs due to Mendoza's red wines, the expedition finally headed towards the Andes. The 10 climbers and 3 guides spent last night in a lodge, located close to Mt Aconcagua Park. They began their hike in today. It's going to take them 3 days to reach base camp Plaza Argentina. The trailhead is at 8,800 ft and base camp is at 13,940 ft. I attach a picture of the group before leaving Mendoza. María José Moisés, a talented rock climber and high mountain guide from Mendoza, is the leading guide. Her team is completed with Larry Holmgreen, from Alaska, and Cacho Beiza, a seasoned Argentinian guide. We will be posting disptaches as the guides call me from their sat phone. Regards,
Nicolás García AP Mendoza

Summit day!

Mon, 04 Jan 2010 10:08:15 -0300

The expedition got to the summit today! Guide Wesley and three climbers took advantage of the good weather window and stood in the highest point in the world outside of the Himalayas, the summit of Mt Aconcagua (22,841 ft). They got to high camp very tired but very happy.
Then tomorrow (Monday) they will complete the circumvalation of the masif, desdending from the mountain by a different route.
They will trek to the trailhead on Tuesday, then spend the night at Penitentes, a lodge with showers, coffee, beer, tv; new things after so many days in the wild.
We will welcome the climbers in Mendoza by Wednesday. Congratulations!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Summit!

Mon, 04 Jan 2010 10:06:27 -0300

Congratulations to the team of climbers, who summited today under the snowfall! Eight climbers and two guides stood in the highest point of the Western Hemisphere, at 22,841 ft. They left early this morning from High camp, and went all the way to complete a 1,000m climb. I received a short phone call from Jacob. He says everyone is ok and safe, back in the camp and really tired. I will post more details tomorrow. It has been a great achievement in a tough season. The picture is from a previous trip.
Regars,
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Back in Mendoza

Mon, 04 Jan 2010 09:59:17 -0300

Happy New Year! The climbers and the guides celebrated New Year with a big dinner in Mendoza last night. They arrived to the city yesterday, after their Mt Aconcagua traverse. "The group is very good, we had a great experience", said lead guide Mike Bradley. "We agreed not to stay at high camp and go for the summit because of the high winds, but doing the traverse instead. It was the right thing to do", Mike told me. Everyone is heading back home now. So this is the last update of group AP#4. Thanks for reading and have a good 2010! I attach a picture of the summit ridge, taken by Mike two seasons before. Regards
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

New Year at Camp II

Mon, 04 Jan 2010 09:57:42 -0300

Happy New Year to all! The expedition led by guide Wes Bunch had a high party yesterday -at almost 18,000 ft in Camp II, the "Chopper Camp". The climbers and the guides are ok and motivated. They are carrying gear and food to Camp III today -which means they will reach 6,000 m (19,685 ft)! It has been windy these days, but it appears to be a calm weather window thet they can take advantage of. One way or the other, the final stage of the climb is on its way now. I will keep you posted, every time Wes calls me from his sat phone. I attach a picture from a previuos trip. Regards from Mendoza!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

New Year at 18,000ft

Mon, 04 Jan 2010 09:55:28 -0300

Wed, 23 Dec 2009 20:16:37 -0300

Yesterday the climbers had their very first contact with the goal of their climb, The Polish Glacier. It was from the trek to base camp, in Casa de Piedra. This part of the hike in offers an awesome sight of the long glaciar tongue known as Polish Glacier (picture), in the East face of Aconcagua. It was a Polish team who first climbed this wall in 1934, the first technical route to be opened in this mountain. Nowadays it is a world classic glacier climb in high altitude.

Back to our expedition, the group is now resting in base camp Plaza Argentina (4250m), where they will have a Christmas celebration tomorrow. Everyone is fine. I will write an update when they call me from the sat phone and give me more news. To those who celebrate it, have a Merry Christmas.
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Christmas at base camp

Wed, 23 Dec 2009 20:07:16 -0300

The group arrived safely to base camp Plaza Argentina (4250m) today. In the hike in the had a good view of the East side of Aconcagua, with the imposing Polish Glacier (picture). The team is higly motivated. Tomorrow it's going to be a rest day and they will have salmon for dinner! Base camp manager Susy has everything ready for a nice Christmas dinner. Here in Mendoza (a mere 750 m above sea level) we will make a toast to the climbers! Merry Christmas to those of you who celebrate it!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Hike in

Mon, 21 Dec 2009 23:15:33 -0300

The climbers began their aproximation trek this morning. All urban stress left behind (jet lag, climbing permits, gear checks, transfers), three days of awesome scenery ahead. The trailhead is Punta de Vacas, an old railroad station. From this point the arrieros (muleteers) used to take live cattle to Chile across the Andes, hence the name "Punta de Vacas", something like cow's point. It is at 9150 ft. Base camp Plaza Argentina is at 13950 ft. I am including the names of the climbers, so their relatives, friends, jealous rivals, etc, can keep track of their progress. They are: William Birdzell, Chase Franklin, Brian Osoro, Jennifer Andre, Tim Dryna, Adam Hodge, Jay Lowry, Richard Agnew, Jennifer Zinck, Margaret St Hill and Marc Lewinstein. Good climb to all of them! I attach pictures of the group, having massive doses of steak and Malbec red wine (with AP Director Rodrigo Mujica), and posing in the Hyatt before leaving.
Regards,
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

On the trail

Mon, 21 Dec 2009 23:14:14 -0300

The expedition finally took off. The 10 climbers (one person had to pospone the trip for working reasons) and 3 guides set foot in the trail today. With an excellent weather forecast for the next 5-6 days, they shouldered their light packs and began the 3 days hike in to base camp. (Mules get to do the bad part of the job, with 60 kg in their backs). They will have an "asado criollo" -Gaucho barbecue- tonight, at the Pampa de Leñas campsite. One of the climbers asked me to include their names in this dispatches, so relatives will know where their loved ones are. The climbers are: Bill Whiteman, Micheael Whiteman, Landon Robinson, Logan Robinson, Clark Kopelman, Youssef Radwan, Miriam Rack, Jon Garrood, Mathew Chernin and Phil Chernin.
As yo can see, there are three father and son teams in this trip! Which is wonderful. I attach a picture of the trail, from a previous trip.
More news as they come in from the sat phone!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

expedition has already began

Mon, 21 Dec 2009 23:12:26 -0300

The expedition has already began the up and down process of acclimatization. They had a rest day at base camp yesterday, and today they are making a carry of food and common gear to Camp 1, so they will cross the 5000m frontier. Then they will go down again (to the luxury of the dining tents and the fine cooking of base camp manager Susy). Tomorrow they will move to Camp 1 to stay there and face the next stage of the climb. They will have a high Chistmas!
There goes a picture of the 5000 m range, from a previous trip.
I will write more when they call me. Regards!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza
Nicolas Garcia / Aconcagua Operations Manager

Celebration dinner

Mon, 21 Dec 2009 23:09:44 -0300

The group is back in Mendoza. Everyone is tired but happy. They are getting some rest at the Hyatt and will go out tonight for a celebration party in a "finca" (farm), at 13 km from Mendoza. So this will be our last dispatch for this group. Congratulations and Merry Christmas for the climbers and for their relatives, friends, lovers, colleagues and plain courious that followed their Aconcagua experience!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Getting ready

Mon, 21 Dec 2009 09:45:27 -0300

Greetings from Mendoza! Everything is getting ready here for our first Polish Glacier trip of the Aconcagua season. There is a very strong team of guides in this expedition: Jacob Schmidt (picture) is the leading guide, with many Aconcagua summits in his pack, and some 8000m Himalayan peaks too. Augusto Ortega, from Perú, is the man with more concagua summits in History: 53 times he`s been to the top! He also climbed Everest. Alaskan guide Larry Holmgreen and local credit Fermín Avila -a seasoned Aconcagua porter before becoming a certified guide- complete the team. They are finishing the details and meeting the 12 climbers that will attempt this technical route. The whole group is getting toether tomorrow for a meeting, then for a good solid Argentinean dinner in a well known Mendoza restaurant. I will be sending updates of their progress in the mountain to our website.

Best wishes,

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

All set for the trip!

Mon, 21 Dec 2009 09:38:44 -0300

As the 11 climbers slowly come to Mendoza after long hours on planes and airports, the 3 guides -Wesley Bunch, Forest Wagner and Rolo Abaca- are working hard to finish shopping and packing (picture). A day in the comfort of the Park Hyatt hotel should help the climbers to cope with jet lag! Tomorrow they have gear checks, a team meeting and then dinner in a good restaurant. Then on Sunday the climbers will get their Aconcagua permits and head towards the mountain. I will be posting information and following the expedition progress from Mendoza.

Regards, Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

Summit!

Mon, 21 Dec 2009 09:32:37 -0300

In a clear and sunny morning, part of the group summited yersterday! They made the push from High Camp (or White Rocks), at 19600 ft, to the top. The summit of Aconcagua, at 22.834 ft, is the highest point in the world outside of the Himalayas. The place has an awesome view, of the sea of smaller peaks around and of the imposing South Face. I don not have the information of who summited yet. But we are all proud that the expeditions succedeed, in a tough season (cold and windy). I will post more news soon! This is a picture of the summit ridge, from a previous trip.

Regards, Nicolás

Steak & Malbec before the climb

Wed, 16 Dec 2009 10:51:54 -0300

The 4th group of the season completed yesterday their acclimatization to Mendoza's steak and Malbec wine(s). British, American and Australian are the nationalities in the 7 climbers group. There are two father and son teams! Seasoned guide Mike Bradley is in charge, and Mt Rainier guide Andy Kittleson is coguiding. Today they headed towards Los Penitentes. This ski resort, at 2700m, functions in summer as starting point for many expeditions. Tomorrow they will get to the trailhead and begin the hike in to base camp (three days). They will be calling to Mendoza from a sat phone, so I will post more news as they come. Regards!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Happy in Mendoza

Mon, 14 Dec 2009 21:17:53 -0300

The private expedition completed the Aconcagua traverse and came down happily to the city today. As with most climbers this though season, the weather made it too dangerous to reach the summit. The AP private expedition accomplished a brave climb, they made it to High Camp and completed the Aconcagua traverse, despite the winds and cold temperatures of previous days. I am sending a picture ot the other side of the mountain, the base camp Plaza de Mulas. They are now in Mendoza having a well deserved rest. Our congratulations to Johny and the guides!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

The altitude game

Mon, 14 Dec 2009 21:07:04 -0300

The group has left the good life at base camp to face the higher camps in the hill. No more haute cuisine -although Martín and Eliana, the guides, are fine cooks. Camp I is at 16000 ft, still comfortable. Everyone is feeling fine. I will give you more info as they call.

Regards from Mendoza! (hot and dry here, kind of windy up there)

Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Base Camp sweet Base Camp!

Mon, 14 Dec 2009 17:57:32 -0300

After a long day descending from high camp the group is at Base Camp drinking beer and eating Pizza!

They are all excited to be back and enjoying a warm Base Camp, with all is amenities, Chef and comfort
Cheers to them!

Rodrigo Mujica / AP Director

Summit Day!

Mon, 14 Dec 2009 17:51:04 -0300

The team got only 65 meters from the top!! Nine members of this expedition got only 200 feet from the top! What a phenomenal accomplishment with the harsh weather this team has experienced during their climb! This season has been a hard one, so far. Temperatures have been extremely cold for early December. The mountain has finally begun to warm up.

We would like to congratulate all Team Members and Guides from this first trip of the season. They made a tremendous effort to get so close, in -30 below temperatures and high winds, several days in a row. We would also like to thank and congratulate Guide Wesley Bunch for his excellent leadership and his solid team Guides as well

Only a handful of climbers have summited Aconcagua this season so far. Summer has arrived late to the Southern Hemisphere, but fortunately it is finally arriving. Aventuras Patagonicas is extremely proud of the way this trip was handled. As I mentioned earlier, it is among one of the toughest trips we have had on the mountain, in our many years of guiding on Aconcagua.

Our tents held up well in the storms, the stoves continued to run hard (thanks to our awesome guides), despite the rough weather conditions. The harsh temperatures and high winds on the mountain early December, caused many teams (not Aventuras Patagonicas teams) to retreat. This team was prepared, enabling them to wait out the weather and make their superb summit attempt during a brief window of good weather, while other teams had long been chased off the mountain by the conditions.
We have a team now positioning at Camp 1. They are already getting more reasonable weather than our Nov 28th Expedition endured

Happy Climbing and Congratulations again to all climbers on our November 28th Expedition!

Best

Rodrigo Mujica / AP Director

The team moved to High Camp

Mon, 14 Dec 2009 10:43:57 -0300

Sunday -19600ft-. They face the final stage of the climb, to try the 22.841ft summit of Mt Aconcagua, or to do the Traverse; climb to High Camp, and then go down via the Normal route, the other side of the mountain. I will keep you posted!

Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

High Camp and Summit day tomorrow!

Mon, 14 Dec 2009 10:41:46 -0300

Big day tomorrow! Wes and the team are in high camp. An euphoric Wes called a minute ago, to say they are THE ONLY ONES THERE (unusual); and that the weather is awesome, as good as the team attitude. Bad weather is over (at least today), and they will try the summit tomorrow. I attach a pic of how it is going to be tomorrow (from last season). High Camp, or White Rocks, is at almost 6000m (19600ft), so they have an almost 1000 meter gain ahead, to reach the 22.841ft summit. This is the highest point in the WEstern Hemisphere! I will post the news tomorrow.

Regards,
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Chopper Camp

Thu, 10 Dec 2009 18:34:03 -0300

The group is resting at CII (camp 2), called "the chopper camp",at 18.000 ft approx. They will do a carry to High Camp tomorrow. I am attaching a pic of CII. At that altitude you get a taste of this big mountain, as wind and cold and of course altitude show their power. It is also where the most awesome landscape and purest blue skies are enjoyed.

Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Successful trek to base camp

Wed, 09 Dec 2009 14:12:11 -0300

After hiking the Vacas Valley and the Relinchos Valley, the 6 climbers and 2 guides arrived today to Plaza Argentina (14200 ft). The approximation trek has one of the most spectacular views of the whole mountain, the Polish Glacier (picture from a previous trip).

Everyone is fine and hungry. Our base camp chef, susy, will see to that. Martín (lead guide) promised to send me a picture from a sat phone. I will keep you informed!

Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Camp II

Wed, 09 Dec 2009 13:55:03 -0300

Guide Carlos Liendo just called from his sat phone to say that they are all ok and moving to Camp II. This means they are crossing the 5000 m of altitude, to get to the 18000 ft camp. Although the strong winds of the last days broke one of their tents, Johny and the guides are fine and having a good climb. I attach a picture from a previous trip.

Nicolás García

AP Mendoza

Progress in the mountain

Wed, 09 Dec 2009 13:53:24 -0300

With hard work and motivation, the group is progressing up the slopes. Despite the strong winds and bitter cold of the last days, the climbers and guides are ok at camp II, and waiting for the weather. In fact many seasoned climbers in Aconcagua believe that bad weather in the lower camps is not bad, because it means that it can improve in the altitude days -when it really counts-. The picture of the camp is from a previous expedition. more news as they come!

Nicolas García

AP Mendoza

Good bye Mendoza

Mon, 07 Dec 2009 10:48:18 -0300

In a fresh Sunday morning, the 6 climbers and two guides left the city of Mendoza and headed towards the "Cordillera" -the range-. This is a special trip, since three of the climblers are a familiy: Chet, Shelley (who is celebrating her birthday today) and their son Jackson. The van will take them across three mountain ranges, the Pre Andes, the Frontal Range and the main range, where Aconcagua lies. They will sleep at 2700m today, and so they will begin the acclimatization process. Tomorrow they will start walking, from the trailhead to Pampa de Leñas, a campsite where they will share a gaucho barbecue with the arrieros (muleteers). Then they will have two more days to the base camp. I will send an update when they get there. Regards!

Nicolas Garcia
AP Mendoza

Carry to Camp 1

Mon, 07 Dec 2009 10:12:58 -0300

The group is acclimatizing succesfully to high altitude. Today they made their first trip to Camp 1 (aprox 16000 ft), to carry their gear, food and gas. Everything is fine up there.

Aventuras Patagonicas 3rd trip of the season is ready to go!

Mon, 07 Dec 2009 10:10:27 -0300

The 6 climbers and two guides are working hard in Mendoza. They are doing gear checks and packing all the stuff. We will have a solid Argentinean steak dinner tonight, of course with some Malbec red wine since we are in the land of the sun and the wine. Here is a picture of the guides Martín Molina, a master rock climber and UIAGM guide from Mendoza, an Eliana Caamaño, a really strong lady from the city of Rosario, in the Pampas, as they prepare the gear in our logistics house.

Tomorrow the team leaves to Penitentes, a small ski resort close to the trailhead, where they will spend one night to start acclimatizing. Then it is a 3-day hike to Plaza Argentina. This is the nice base camp of the East side of Aconcagua. It is the last point where the mules take the loads; from there on, is human power! The group will stay at least 3 more days at base camp (nice dinners by chef Susy Tarditti). Then the altitude game begins. But there will be plenty of dispatches before, as they call me from their sat phone and I deliver the news to you. Until then!

Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Arrival to Plaza Argentina

Mon, 07 Dec 2009 10:04:01 -0300

Climber Johny Bergius and his guides, Carlos Liendo and Larry Holmgreen, are having their well deserved rest day today. They arrived to base camp Plaza Argentina (14.000 ft aprox) yesterday, after a 3-day hike. Everything is fine. "Johny is feeling strong", said Carlos, via sat phone. I will write more when they call. I post a picture of the trail, from a previous expedition, so you can see the place. Regards!

Nicolás García
AP Mendoza
Nicolas Garcia / Aconcagua Operations Manager

On the trail

Wed, 02 Dec 2009 22:37:12 -0300

Johny and his guides hit the trail today.

After seeing that the mules carry all the load of the expedition -literally- they headed towards the trailhead (Punta de Vacas). They have a 3 day trek head. Forecast indicates fine weather! I will pass the news as they call me from the mountain. Regards!
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

They hit base (camp)

Wed, 02 Dec 2009 21:15:16 -0300

Lead guide Wesley, called today from his sat phone, to deliver the good news that the group arrived perfectly well to base camp Plaza Argentina (13800 ft).

They will enjoy an excellent dinner tonight, made by our chef and base camp manager Susy -a guide and climber herself-. Tomorrow will be a rest day for them. Then begins the process of carrying loads to altitude, which is good to acclimatize and to go light in the final push. I am attaching a picture of Plaza Argentina from a previous expedition. More news as they come!

Regards,
Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

Approach to Base Camp

Wed, 02 Dec 2009 12:00:53 -0300

Hello to all. Your relatives, friends, etc who are climbing with us are doing well in their 3 day trek to base camp (Plaza Argentina). They will get to Casa de Piedra (stone hut) today, and to BC tomorrow in the afternoon, according to the plan. Weather is fine, and the forecast says the sun will shine for many days in a row.

The group will get to see some awesome sights of Aconcagua's Polish Glacier today (pic). This glacier was first climbed in 1934 by a Polish expedition. It was a milestone of mountaineering in the Andes, and today it's still a demanding route.

The route of our expedition shares base camp with the Polish Route, but then it joins the Normal Route high in the mountain.

More news when they get to BC!
Nicolás García
Mendoza

Our second expedition of the season left town today

Tue, 01 Dec 2009 22:34:33 -0300

After a succesful acclimatization to Mendoza's steaks and Malbec wine, our second expedition of the season left town today. The british climber John Bergius and the guides Carlos Liendo (Chile) and Larry Holmgreen (Alaska) headed towards Los Penitentes.

This ski resort functions in summer as starting point for many expeditions. Tomorrow they will hit the trail, as our arrieros (gauchos) load the mules with the group supplies. It will take them 3 days to get to base camp (Plaza Argentina), if all goes according to plans.

They will be calling to Mendoza from a sat phone, so I will post more news as they come.

Regards!

Nicolás García
AP Mendoza

The trip is on its way!

Mon, 30 Nov 2009 09:54:26 -0300

The group left the hotel today and headed towards Los Penitentes, a small ski resort 6 km from the trailhead (2700m). Spirits were high. They will start walking tomorrow from Punta de Vacas. Tomorrow, many stoic mules will carry their mountain gear, their asado (barbercue) and even some bottles of Malbec red wine to their fisrt camp, Pampa de Leñas. I will keep you posted!

28 nov dinner

Thu, 26 Nov 2009 18:28:45 -0300

After long hours on planes, airports and taxis, the 13 climbers and 4 guides of our first Aconcagua expedition of the season got together in Mendoza. We are honored to have them in our city (almost a million habitants, tree.lined streets, sidewalks coffees and vineyards in the country -of course you can also see mountain in the horizon-).

We greeted them with big Argentinan steaks and the comfort of the best hotel in town. The guides are very optimistic and said it is a pretty good group so far (well prepared and with team spirits).

Wesley and Calvin are the Lead Guides (both well seasoned Tetons guides both), and María José (Mendoza) and Mariano (Argentinean Patagonia) are the coguides. Both firts class climbers and bright guides. The group will get the Aconcagua permits tomorrow and head towards the Andes, a 3 hour interesting drive.

Nicolás García
Mendoza

First trip of the season is getting ready!

Wed, 25 Nov 2009 12:00:13 -0300

The Guides and AP staff are already in Mendoza packing and getting all ready for the first Aconcagua expedition of the season, Our Nov 28th Ameghino Valley and Upper Guanacos Trip, scheduled to depart in a few days. Clients will be arriving soon to Mendoza as well, Our expedition begins and ends in the City of Mendoza, Argentina. The city of Mendoza is a charming town with pleasant wide avenues, boulevards and parks. Our first step will be to check clients gear at the Mendoza Park Hyatt, often done on their room. Gear check is a critical step. It is important to pare down to the essential items you will need to climb to the Top of the Americas. Often at gear check we discover someone has brought gear that is not warm enough. More than one experienced Alaskan has forgotten the essential expedition parka!

A group meeting will follow gear check. We will introduce our guides and team members and talk about several aspects of the expedition. We will discuss the philosophy and style of the expedition, the effects of Diamox and prescription medications at altitude, sanitation, water treatment, teamwork, and the art of climbing big mountains. Dinner will take place immediately after the meeting at a fine Mendoza restaurant reached via a pleasant walk from the hotel. We will have a chance to taste gourmet Argentinean cuisine, fresh beef, delicious wines (there are plenty of alternatives for non-drinkers and vegetarians in the group as well).

Aventuras Patagonicas's Director Rodrigo Mujica has also been in South America for weeks now planning the last details, and will arrive to Mendoza today.

AP Operation's Manager Nicolas Garcia is also in Mendoza making sure all details are taken care off.

We are all VERY excited about this new coming season!

Our clients for this expedition

Ted Allsopp
Jim Leahy
Andrew Walo
Richard Kisson
Zbigniew Mach
Jim Berryhill
Amy Roberts
Rusty Carter
Jack Crawford
Kathryn Veseth
Christopher Paslawski
Thomas O'Connell
Graham Austin

Our guides for this expedition

Wes Bunch - Lead Guide
Calvin Herbert - Assistant Guide
Maria Jose Moises - Assistant Guide
Mariano Galvan - Assistant Guide