Aconcagua mountain expedition guides climbing
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Aconcagua Expedition Mountain Guides

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RODRIGO MUJICA
Director

AMGA Certified Alpine Guide, Rock Guide & Ski Mountaineering Guide

UIAGM / IFMGA Internationally Certified
Mountain Guide



U.S. Owned & Operated
 

EXPEDITIONS
Aconcagua
Ojos Del Salado | Nevado Juncal | Central Andes
Bolivian Classics | Bolivian Technical Climbs | Ecuador | Peru
Tupungato Volcano
| Trekking Patagonia | Skiing Patagonia
North Tower of Paine | Central Tower of Paine


BOLIVIAN TECHNICAL CLIMBS

ILLIMANI, ANCOHUMA AND ILLAMPU

DATES OF TRIP:

May 1-16, 2005
May 14-29, 2005
June 4-19, 2005
June 11-26, 2005
July 1-16, 2005
July 16-31, 2005
August 6-21, 2005
August 21-September 5, 2005
September 3-18, 2005

DURATION OF TRIP: 16 days
COST OF TRIP: $3,500
DEPOSIT DUE TO RESERVE A POSITION: $600
BALANCE AMOUNT: $2,900
DATE BALANCE DUE: 60 days before departure.

Click Here for recommended Equipment List

Our Mountaineering expedition to Illimani (21,201 feet), Ancohuma (21,095 feet) and Illampu (20,873 feet), will confirm that some of the most dramatic alpine peaks in the Western hemisphere lie in Bolivia. We start our trip in La Paz, Bolivia where we spend a few days to begin our acclimatization process.

We then head to Illimani, the highest peak of the magnificent Cordillera Real of Bolivia, a range comparable with any of the world's major ranges. Illimani is a fun non-technical snow climb and a great place to get well acclimatized for our next objective, Ancohuma. This peak is one of the most spectacular peaks of the Cordillera Real with fun and steep ice and snow climbing up to 50-55 degrees. The climbing includes mixed snow and rock, which give us access to the crest of the spectacular 1,500 foot knife edge north ridge that takes us to the summit.

After our descent to Base camp, and a well deserved rest, we head for our final goal, Illampu. As our final peak, and greatest challenge of the expedition, this climb offers steep snow and ice of up to 55 degrees, with overwhelmingly beautiful views of the whole, and vast Cordillera Real, eastern Peru, the Amazon Basin, and Lake Titicaca.

COST INCLUDES
Professional Mountain Guides, 2 nights hotel accommodation in La Paz, all land transportation, 4x4, burros, llamas, porters, camp guardian, cook, meals while in the mountains, all community gear (Base Camp tent, tents, stoves, cooking gear, ropes, ice screws, pickets, medical kit, satellite phone, radios, etc.), National Park fee.

YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR
Flights to La Paz, any lodging excluding 2 nights in La Paz, meals (except while you are climbing), personal equipment, passport, personal items and services (laundry, drinks, tips, etc.), and expenses incurred in the event of a rescue.

TRIP ITINERARY

DAY 1: Group meets in La Paz, Bolivia's capital city, the world¹s highest capital at above 10,000 ft, starting our acclimatization program as soon as you step out of the plane. Gear check and afternoon briefing at the hotel. Because acclimatization is crucial to our success, we highly recommend that our clients arrive 2 to 3 days earlier in La Paz prior to the start of the expedition. Attractive day treks and tours can be arranged from La Paz.
DAY 2: Acclimatization day in La Paz. The main purpose of our second day is to spend another night above 10,000'. This is a great occasion to visit La Paz and its many colonial sites.
DAY 3: Drive southeast towards Illimani (21,201'). The highest peak in the Cordillera Real, it is a massive mountain with three spectacular summits above 20,000'. At the end of this rugged road we meet the llamas and their llama handler who will take our gear to our Base Camp at 15,000'.
DAY 4: Carry a load to 18,000', our High Camp, and return to Base Camp.
DAY 5: Move to High Camp (18,000'). From this camp we have great views of the cirque of Illimani and across Lake Titicaca.
DAY 6: Summit Day!! Weather permitting. Early start to tackle Illimani's steep Southwest Buttress, interesting and careful glacier travel negotiating impressive crevasses. Before reaching the summit ridge we climb a beautiful 40-45 degree face. The gentle summit ridge offers spectacular views of the Andes.
DAY 7: Descent to Base Camp and down to La Paz. Dinner and rest.
DAY 8: Drive north towards our next objective, Ancohuma, (21,095'). It is an impressive and challenging mountain. With the help of llamas we reach our Base Camp at 15,400' by a beautiful lake.
DAY 9: Move to Camp I at 17,200'.
DAY 10: Move to Camp II at 18,900'. Beautiful glacier travel and a pass through a col takes us to the north side of the mountain where we establish camp.
DAY 11: Summit day, weather permitting. On summit day we climb a few pitches of 50-55 degree ice and mixed climbing, giving us access to the crest of the 1500 foot knife-edged North Ridge, a spectacular and exposed ridge that takes us to the summit. Ancohuma and Illampu have some of the finest climbing in Bolivia, and the Andes, offering quality glacier, snow, ice and mixed climbing.
DAY 12: Descent to Base Camp.
DAY 13-
14-15:
Hike to the base of Illampu (20,873'), our final objective of the trip. Illampu offers great ice and snow climbing on its Southwest Face up to 50-55 degrees. Move to high camp and summit next day (weather permitting).
DAY 16: Descent to La Paz. Next day fly back home or continue traveling in South America.


NOTE
This itinerary is intended to be a guideline only, weather days and rest days are always a possibility while on a climbing expedition.

High on Illimani's Summit Ridge

 

Bolivia's Cordillera Real

 
 

 

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Extreme Alpinism
Climbing Light, Fast, and High
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Mountaineering
The Freedom of the Hills
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© Photos by
Rodrigo Mujica


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