Aventuras Patagonicas on Bolivia Technical Climbs

Aventuras Patagonicas on Bolivia Technical Climbs

International Expeditions and Climbing Guide Service

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Bolivia Technical Climbs

Condoriri Valley
Condoriri Valley

Our Mountaineering expedition to Illimani (21,201 feet), Ancohuma (21,095 feet) and Illampu (20,873 feet), will confirm that some of the most dramatic alpine peaks in the Western hemisphere lie in Bolivia. We start our trip in La Paz, Bolivia where we spend a few days to begin our acclimatization process.

We then head to Illimani, the highest peak of the magnificent Cordillera Real of Bolivia, a range comparable with any of the world's major ranges. Illimani is a fun non-technical snow climb and a great place to get well acclimatized for our next objective, Ancohuma.

This peak is one of the most spectacular peaks of the Cordillera Real with fun and steep ice and snow climbing up to 50-55 degrees. The climbing includes mixed snow and rock, which give us access to the crest of the spectacular 1,500 foot knife edge north ridge that takes us to the summit.

After our descent to Base camp, and a well deserved rest, we head for our final goal, Illampu. As our final peak, and greatest challenge of the expedition, this climb offers steep snow and ice of up to 55 degrees, with overwhelmingly beautiful views of the whole, and vast Cordillera Real, eastern Peru, the Amazon Basin, and Lake Titicaca.

Itinerary (view full itinerary in one page)

  • Bolivia Technical Climbs
    Day 01

    Group meets in La Paz, Bolivia's capital city, the world's highest capital at above 10,000 ft, starting our acclimatization program as soon as you step out of the plane. Gear check and afternoon briefing at the hotel. Because acclimatization is crucial to our success, we highly recommend that our clients arrive 2 to 3 days earlier in La Paz prior to the start of the expedition. Attractive day treks and tours can be arranged from La Paz.

  • Bolivia Technical Climbs
    Day 02

    Acclimatization day in La Paz. The main purpose of our second day is to spend another night above 10,000'. This is a great occasion to visit La Paz and its many colonial sites.

  • Bolivia Technical Climbs
    Day 03

    Drive southeast towards Illimani (21,201'). The highest peak in the Cordillera Real, it is a massive mountain with three spectacular summits above 20,000'. At the end of this rugged road we meet the llamas and their llama handler who will take our gear to our Base Camp at 15,000'.

  • Bolivia Technical Climbs
    Day 04

    Carry a load to 18,000', our High Camp, and return to Base Camp.

  • Bolivia Technical Climbs
    Day 05

    Move to High Camp (18,000'). From this camp we have great views of the cirque of Illimani and across Lake Titicaca.

  • Bolivia Technical Climbs
    Day 06

    Summit Day!! Weather permitting. Early start to tackle Illimani's steep Southwest Buttress, interesting and careful glacier travel negotiating impressive crevasses. Before reaching the summit ridge we climb a beautiful 40-45 degree face. The gentle summit ridge offers spectacular views of the Andes.

  • Bolivia Technical Climbs
    Day 07

    Descent to Base Camp and down to La Paz. Dinner and rest.

  • Bolivia Technical Climbs
    Day 08

    Drive north towards our next objective, Ancohuma, (21,095'). It is an impressive and challenging mountain. With the help of llamas we reach our Base Camp at 15,400' by a beautiful lake.

  • Bolivia Technical Climbs
    Day 09

    Move to Camp I at 17,200'.

  • Bolivia Technical Climbs
    Day 10

    Move to Camp II at 18,900'. Beautiful glacier travel and a pass through a col takes us to the north side of the mountain where we establish camp.

  • Bolivia Technical Climbs
    Day 11

    Summit day, weather permitting. On summit day we climb a few pitches of 50-55 degree ice and mixed climbing, giving us access to the crest of the 1500 foot knife-edged North Ridge, a spectacular and exposed ridge that takes us to the summit. Ancohuma and Illampu have some of the finest climbing in Bolivia, and the Andes, offering quality glacier, snow, ice and mixed climbing.

  • Bolivia Technical Climbs
    Day 12

    Descent to Base Camp.

  • Bolivia Technical Climbs
    Day 13-14-15

    Hike to the base of Illampu (20,873'), our final objective of the trip. Illampu offers great ice and snow climbing on its Southwest Face up to 50-55 degrees. Move to high camp and summit next day (weather permitting).

  • Bolivia Technical Climbs
    Next Day

    Descent to La Paz. Next day fly back home or continue traveling in South America.

Cost Includes

  • Professional Mountain Guides
  • 2 nights hotel accommodation in La Paz
  • all land transportation
  • 4x4
  • burros
  • llamas
  • porters
  • camp guardian
  • cook
  • meals while in the mountains
  • all community gear (Base Camp tent, tents, stoves, cooking gear, ropes, ice screws, pickets, medical kit, satellite phone, radios, etc.)
  • National Park fee.

You are responsible for

  • Flights to La Paz
  • any lodging excluding 2 nights in La Paz
  • meals (except while you are climbing)
  • personal equipment
  • passport
  • personal items and services (laundry, drinks, tips, etc.)
  • expenses incurred in the event of a rescue.

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