Aconcagua Expedition Mountain Guides

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AMEGHINO VALLEY / UPPER GUANACOS TRAVERSE EXPEDITION

New for 2007!!!

| Itinerary Below
| Schedule & Rates

Mules in Ameghino Valley

Route Description

This is the second best route on the mountain after our Guanacos Valley route. It is a previously established route (a.k.a. Relinchos Valley), which we have named the Ameghino Valley, after the striking Ameghino Peak (19,530’) that surrounds us during the entire trip, and to differentiate our approach.

Aconcagua S. Face

After Camp 1 we reconnect with our long time favorite Guanacos Valley Route, offering the best of both worlds; a route less remote than the pristine Guanacos Valley, the comfort of an established Base Camp, access to porters if needed, a doctor on call, etc.

On the summit of Aconcagua

The Ameghino Valley & Upper Guanacos Traverse starts with the same approach as the Guanacos Valley for the first 2 days, then we take the beautiful Ameghino Valley. Even today, this eastern approach to the mountain is not as heavily traveled as the Normal Route. After three days of spectacular, colorful, high desert scenery we reach our Base Camp at 13,800’.

Note: This year the Aconcagua Park Authorities have closed the lower Guanacos Valley until further notice. We are working to reopen it by the upcoming Aconcagua climbing season. This closure does NOT affect the Ameghino / Upper Guanacos Route.

| Guanacos Valley & Traverse | Polish Glacier | Normal Route w/ Porters

WHICH TO CHOOSE - GUANACOS OR AMEGHINO?

Our wisest advise here is: Choose the Guanacos Valley Route (same price) and be prepared to climb the Ameghino Valley / Upper Guanacos Traverse if the lower Guanacos Valley remains closed by the start date of your expedition. This guarantees you the best possible choice if the lower Guanacos Valley opens up by your expedition start date, the most pristine scenery, and the highest overall chance of success. Our Polish Glacier Expeditions will approach Aconcagua via the Guanacos Valley, if it is open, and the Ameghino Valley, if the Guanacos Valley is closed. If you have any questions, please call us toll free at 1-888-203-9354.

Ameghino Valley / Upper Guanacos Traverse Expedition Itinerary

For a more detailed trip overview and itinerary, click here.

DAY 1:	Group meets in Mendoza, Argentina. Equipment check and afternoon briefing will be at the hotel. For dinner we will have a chance to taste fine Argentinean cuisine and wine.
DAY 2:	Drive west from Mendoza to Penitentes ski area at 8,500’. Our drive winds along the Rio Mendoza deep into the heart of the rugged Andes mountains where we begin our acclimatization in Penitentes. Afternoon hike is recommended, though optional.
DAY 3-4-5:	Approach to Base Camp. Hike up the Vacas and Ameghino Valleys to Base Camp. Mules will carry our gear. Here we begin the route, which was established in 1934 by a Polish Expedition. Even today this eastern approach to the mountain is not as heavily traveled as the Normal Route. After three days of spectacular, colorful, high desert scenery we reach our Base Camp, at 13,800’. The hike to Base Camp is approximately 40 miles and gives us the perfect chance to begin our acclimatization.
DAY 6:	Rest and acclimatization day at Base Camp. We want everyone to have the best possible chance to make the summit. The most effective way to do this is to take the time to acclimatize to the low oxygen environment. We will incorporate rest days into our schedule and climb in traditional expedition style. We will be carrying loads up to the next camp and returning to sleep below at the previous camp. The next day we will move to the higher camp. This is an excellent method of acclimatization, which is our main focus throughout your expedition.
DAY 7:	Carry a load to Camp I, at 16,300’. The route goes up a gentle trail on the rocky moraine-covered Relinchos Glacier situated between Cerro Aconcagua and Cerro Ameghino. Here we will be able to see Nieve Penitentes, unique snow and ice formations created by the direct sun. Return to Base Camp.
DAY 8:	Leave Base Camp. Move to Camp I
DAY 9:	Carry a load to Camp II, at 17,500’. Fantastic view of the Polish Glacier. We ascend scree slopes to a broad ridge crest where we will establish Camp II. Today we reconnect with our UPPER GUANACOS VALLEY ROUTE! After reaching the Ameghino saddle, a gentle easy traverse takes us to the Guanacos.
DAY 10:	Move to Camp II.
DAY 11:	Move to Camp III, at 17,800’. A carry will not be needed today, since we have already done our short carry most likely the day before. This is an easy day where we traverse from the saddle to the upper Guanacos, elevation gain is minimum. This camp and tactic are key for our success. Using 2 camps at the 17,500’ level we save a day, which can be used later for a rest or a weather day at High Camp. On this particular day, this route creates one of the best upper mountain acclimatization possibilities on Aconcagua. The results are overwhelmingly positive: a team very well acclimatized.
DAY 12:	Carry to High Camp, Piedras Blancas (White Rocks), at 19,200’.
DAY 13:	Move to High Camp, from where we will tackle the summit the next day.
DAY 14-17:	Summit! Weather permitting. We leave several days for our summit day in case of poor weather.
DAY 18:	Descend down the Normal Route, all the way to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp, at 13,800’. This will be quite exciting since we descend a different side of the mountain.
DAY 19:	Descend the Horcones Valley with its impressive views of Aconcagua’s South Face. Mules carry our gear. Spend the night in Penitentes.
DAY 20:	Drive back to Mendoza. Evening banquet with your team. Spend night in Mendoza.
NEXT DAY:	Fly home or continue traveling in South America.

Note: This itinerary is intended to be a guideline only, weather days and rest days are always a possibility while on a climbing expedition.

COST INCLUDES
Professional Mountain Guides, 2 nights hotel accommodation in Mendoza at the Mendoza Park Hyatt Hotel with breakfast buffet (1 night at the beginning of the expedition and 1 night at the end of the expedition), 2 nights hotel accommodation, breakfasts and dinners in Penitentes, all land transportation, mules, all expedition food, all community gear such as; tents, stoves, state of the art Base Camp, cooking gear, medical kits, satellite phones, radios, gamow bag, pulse-oximeters, etc.

YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR
Round-trip flights to and from Mendoza, Argentina, Aconcagua climbing permit fee (approx. $250, which you will pay in Mendoza, accompanied by your guide), meals in Mendoza, personal equipment, passport, personal items and services (laundry, snacks, drinks, tips, etc.), expenses incurred in the case of a rescue or early departure from the expedition, and SAT phone charges.

Aconcagua Expedition Mountain Guides

SUGGESTED READING

AMEGHINO VALLEY

AMEGHINO VALLEY / UPPER GUANACOS TRAVERSE EXPEDITION

New for 2007!!!

Mules in Ameghino Valley Route Description

WHICH TO CHOOSE - GUANACOS OR AMEGHINO?

Ameghino Valley / Upper Guanacos Traverse Expedition Itinerary

Mules in Ameghino Valley

Route Description