Aconcagua mountain expedition guides climbing
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RODRIGO MUJICA
Director

AMGA Certified Alpine Guide, Rock Guide & Ski Mountaineering Guide

UIAGM / IFMGA Internationally Certified
Mountain Guide



U.S. Owned & Operated


VACAS AND RELINCHOS VALLEY ROUTE with TRAVERSE AND POLISH GLACIER OPTION
NEW!

 

DATES OF TRIPS
2005-2006
Dec. 12-31
Jan. 4-23
Feb. 1-20
DURATION OF TRIP: 20 days
COST OF TRIP: $3700 with climbing permit included ($300) See Cost/Includes Page for Details.
DEPOSIT DUE TO RESERVE A POSITION: $700
BALANCE AMOUNT: $3000
DATE BALANCE DUE: 60 days before departure.

COST INCLUDES
Professional Mountain Guides, 2 nights hotel accommodation in Mendoza at the Mendoza Park Hyatt Hotel with breakfast buffet included (FIVE star hotel) ; 1 night at the beginning of the expedition and 1 night at the end of the expedition, 2 nights hotel accommodation in Penitentes, breakfasts and dinners in Penitentes, all land transportation, mules, all expedition food, all community gear such as; tents, stoves, state of the art Base Camp, cooking gear, medical kits, satellite phones, radios, gamow bag, pulse-oximeters, etc., and Aconcagua permit fee.

YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR
Round Trip Flights to and from Mendoza, meals in Mendoza, Personal equipment, passport, personal items and services (laundry, snacks, drinks, tips, etc.), and expenses incurred in the case of a rescue. Extra expenses for early departure from the expedition, such us non scheduled mules, etc.

ACONCAGUA VACAS AND RELINCHOS VALLEY with traverse:
We were pioneers guiding this route in the 80’s, then it became a bit crowded and we decided to switch to our Favorite Guanacos Valley route, however this year due to a significant increase on permit fee we have chosen this route again as a cheaper option, we still believe the Guanacos Valley is the best alternative on the mountain, however the Relinchos is also one of the greatest non-technical ways of climbing Aconcagua. The Aconcagua Vacas and Relinchos valley expedition, ascends the Vacas and Relinchos Valleys Route. At the base of the Polish Glacier we traverse the mountain. Upon summiting, we descend the Normal Route, offering a wide spectrum of the entire mountain by traveling through three different river valleys; the Vacas, Relinchos and Horcones, experiencing the entire mountain, and past the four tremendous main faces of Aconcagua.


TRIP ITINERARY
 

DAY 1: Group meets in Mendoza, Argentina. Equipment check and afternoon briefing at the hotel. For dinner we will have a chance to taste fine Argentinean cuisine and wine.
DAY 2: Drive west from Mendoza to Penitentes ski area at 8,500’. Our drive winds along the Rio Mendoza deep into the heart of the rugged Andes mountains where we begin our acclimatization in Penitentes. Afternoon hike is recommended, though optional.
DAY 3-4-5: Approach to Plaza Argentina Base Camp. Mules carry our gear. Hike up the Vacas and Relinchos Valleys to Base Camp. Mules will carry our gear. Here we begin the route, which was established in 1934 by a Polish Expedition. Even today, this eastern approach to the mountain is not as heavily traveled as the normal route. After three days of spectacular, colorful, high desert scenery we reach our Base Camp, Plaza Argentina, at 13,800’. The hike to Base Camp is approximately 40 miles and gives us the perfect chance to begin our acclimatization.
DAY 6: Rest and acclimatization day at base camp. We want everyone to have the best possible chance to make the summit. The most effective way to do this is to take the time to acclimatize to the low oxygen environment. We will incorporate rest days into our schedule and climb in traditional expedition style. We will be carrying loads up to the next camp and returning to sleep below, at the previous camp. The next day we will move to the higher camp.
DAY 7: Carry a load to Camp I at 16,300’. The route goes up the rocky moraine-covered Relinchos Glacier situated between Cerro Aconcagua and Cerro Ameghino. Here we will be able to see Nieve Penitentes, unique snow and ice formations created by the direct sun. Return to Base Camp.
DAY 8: Leave Base Camp. Move to Camp I
DAY 9: Carry a load to Camp II at 17,500’. Fantastic view of the Polish Glacier. We ascend scree slopes to a broad ridge crest where we will establish Camp II.
DAY 10: Move to Camp II.
DAY 11: Carry a load to camp III. We will establish our camp at the base of the Polish Glacier, at 19,200’.
DAY 12: Move to Camp III.
DAY 13: Traverse to our High Camp at 19,400’. We don’t gain much altitude this day, allowing us to better acclimatize, instead we traverse to our High Camp on the north side of the mountain, Piedras Blancas, from where we will tackle the summit the next day.
DAY 14-15-
16-17:
Summit! Weather permitting. We leave several days for our summit day in case of poor weather.
DAY 18: Descend down the Normal Route, all the way to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. This will be quite exciting since we will be descending a different side of the mountain. We will have dinner and spend the night at 13,800’ on the Normal Route.
DAY 19: Descend the Horcones Valley, with its impressive views of Aconcagua’s South Face. Spend the night in Penitentes.
DAY 20: Drive back to Mendoza. Next day fly home or continue traveling in South America.


 Note: This itinerary is intended to be a guideline only, weather days and rest days are always a possibility while on a climbing expedition.

 

River crossing in the Guanacos Valley

 

Crossing nieve penitentes field on our new Guanacos Route

 

At 22,700' on Aconcagua's Summit Ridge

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© Photos by
Rodrigo Mujica

 

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