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POLISH GLACIER
New
Polish Glacier Itinerary!
(approach via Guanacos Valley and Traverse)
DATES OF TRIPS
2005-2006
Nov 26 - Dec 15
Dec 3 - 22
Dec 10 - 29
Dec 12 - 31
Dec 17 - Jan 5
Dec 28 - Jan 16
Jan 4 - 23
Jan 7 - 26
Jan 14 - Feb 2
Jan 21 - Feb 9
Jan 28 - Feb 16
Feb 1 - 20
Feb 4 - 23
Feb 11 - Mar 2 |
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DURATION OF TRIP: |
20 days |
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COST OF TRIP: |
$3700 without climbing permit
$4300 with climbing permit
See
Cost/Includes
Page for Details. |
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DEPOSIT DUE TO RESERVE A POSITION: |
$800 |
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BALANCE AMOUNT: |
$2900 - $3500 |
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DATE BALANCE DUE: |
60 days before departure. |
COST INCLUDES
Professional Mountain Guides, 2 nights hotel accommodation in Mendoza at the
Mendoza Park Hyatt Hotel with breakfast buffet included (FIVE star hotel) ; 1 night at the beginning of the expedition and 1 night at the end of the expedition, 2 nights hotel
accommodation in Penitentes, breakfasts and dinners in Penitentes,
all land transportation, mules, all expedition food, all community
gear such as; tents, stoves, state of the art Base Camp, cooking
gear, medical kits, satellite phones, radios, gamow bag, pulse-oximeters,
etc., and Aconcagua permit fee. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR
Round Trip Flights to and from Mendoza, meals in Mendoza, Personal equipment, passport,
personal items and services (laundry, snacks, drinks, tips, etc.),
and expenses incurred in the case of a rescue. Extra expenses for early departure from the
expedition, such us non scheduled mules, etc.
POLISH GLACIER.
NEW!
We will continue to approach the Polish Glacier via the Guanacos
Valley and traverse the mountain. If you are signing up for the
Polish Glacier Route you need to have previous high altitude
experience, and be very familiar with the use of ice axe, crampons,
and belaying techniques. We are specialized in the Polish Glacier
Route, having successfully guided it many times.The line we choose
will depend on conditions. If a lot of penitentes (snow pinnacles
formed by direct sunlight) are encountered in the lower section of
the glacier, we will start by climbing through the scree and rock on
the right hand side. The steeper Polish Glacier Direct Route has
been the choice route in recent years. Although steeper, it is safer
and easier due to fewer icy and exposed traverses than on the old
Polish Route. On this spectacular, steep snow and ice climb we will
use several running belays. In steeper icy sections we will climb
pitches instead of using running belays, belaying and regrouping at
every anchor. A long day of climbing will take us to the Summit
Ridge at 22,000 after the last steep pitch; a 55-60 degree narrow
gully with the entire Glacier below at our feet. The final ridge is
very long and gentle. After summiting, we descend quickly down the
Normal Route to Independencia (20,790 ) where we descend to our High
Camp at 19,200 to rest and spend the night. The next day we descend
the Normal Route.
TRIP ITINERARY
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DAY 1: |
Group
meets in Mendoza, Argentina. Equipment check and afternoon briefing
at the hotel. For dinner we will have a chance to taste fine
Argentinean cuisine and wine. |
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DAY 2: |
Drive West from Mendoza to Penitentes ski area at 8,500
. Our drive winds along the Rio Mendoza deep into the
heart of the rugged Andes mountains where we begin our
acclimatization in Penitentes. An afternoon hike is
recommended, though optional. |
DAY 3-
4-5: |
Approach to Plaza Guanacos Base Camp. Mules carry our
gear. This approximately 35 mile approach is essential
to our acclimatization. Our first two days we follow the
same route as Aventuras Patagonicas old Traverse and Polish Glacier Expeditions.
The third day begins our new approach. We continue up the Vacas
Valleyinstead of ascending the Relinchos Valley. The chances of
seeing other expeditions on this new exciting route is remote. The
chance of seeing numerous wildlife is much moreprobable. Spectacular
glaciers contrasting with a desert backdrop make this approach both
surreal and unforgettable. We have an excellent chance of seeing
herds of guanacos. When Rodrigo did an exploratory trip to the
region he encountered several hundred, counting 80 in one sighting
alone! These magnificent mammals are well camouflaged, extremely
elusive and a rare sight in the Aconcagua region. |
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DAY 6: |
Plaza Guanaco Base Camp at 13,000 . Rest and
acclimatization day at Base Camp. We want everyone to
have the best possible chance to make the summit. The
most effective way to do this is to take the time to
acclimatize to the low oxygen environment. We will
incorporate rest days into our schedule and climb in
traditional expedition style. We will be carrying loads
up to the next camp and returning to sleep below at the
previous camp. The next day we will move to the higher camp.environment. We will
incorporate rest days into our schedule and climb in traditional
expedition style. We will be carrying loads up to the next camp and
returning to sleep below at the previous camp. The next day we will
move to the higher camp. |
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DAY 7: |
Carry a load to Camp I at approximately 15,200 . The
route goes up the narrow valley between the North side
of Cerro Ameghino and Cerro San Francisco. Here we will be able to see Nieve
Penitentes, unique snow and ice formations created by the direct
sun. Return to Base Camp. |
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DAY 8: |
Leave Base Camp. Move to Camp I. |
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DAY 9: |
Carry a load to Camp II at 16,500 . Fantastic view of
the Polish Glacier. We ascend scree slopes to a broad ridge crest
where we will establish Camp II. |
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DAY 10: |
Move to Camp II. |
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DAY 11: |
Carry a load to Camp III, below the Polish Glacier at
17,800 . |
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DAY 12: |
Move to Camp III. depending on how group is doing. |
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DAY 13: |
Carry a load to High Camp, at 19,200 . We will establish
this camp at the base of the Polish Glacier. |
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DAY 14: |
Move to High Camp. |
DAY 15-
16-17: |
Summit! Weather permitting. We allow several
days for our Summit Day in case of poor weather.
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DAY 18: |
Descend the Normal Route to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp.
This will be quite exciting since we will be descending a different
side of the mountain. |
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DAY 19: |
Hike
out the Horcones Valley, with its impressive views of
Aconcagua s South Face. Spend the night in Penitentes. |
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DAY 20: |
Drive to Mendoza. Enjoy delicious team banquet! Next
day fly home or continue traveling in South America. |
Note: This itinerary is intended to be a guideline only,
weather days and rest days are always a possibility while on a
climbing expedition. |
