Aconcagua mountain expedition guides climbing
Aconcagua mountain expedition guides climbing

Aconcagua Expedition Mountain Guides

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RODRIGO MUJICA
Director

AMGA Certified Alpine Guide, Rock Guide & Ski Mountaineering Guide

UIAGM / IFMGA Internationally Certified
Mountain Guide



U.S. Owned & Operated


GUANACOS VALLEY AND TRAVERSE ROUTE

 

DATES OF TRIPS
2005-2006
Nov 26 - Dec 15
Dec 3 - 22
Dec 10 - 29
Dec 12 - 31
Dec 17 - Jan 5
Dec 28 - Jan 16
Jan 4 - 23
Jan 7 - 26
Jan 14 - Feb 2
Jan 21 - Feb 9
Jan 28 - Feb 16
Feb 1 - 20
Feb 4 - 23
Feb 11 - Mar 2
DURATION OF TRIP: 20 days
COST OF TRIP: $3500 without climbing permit
$4100 with climbing permit
See
Cost/Includes Page for Details.
DEPOSIT DUE TO RESERVE A POSITION: $700
BALANCE AMOUNT: $2800 - $3400
DATE BALANCE DUE: 60 days before departure.

COST INCLUDES
Professional Mountain Guides, 2 nights hotel accommodation in Mendoza at the Mendoza Park Hyatt Hotel with breakfast buffet included (FIVE star hotel) ; 1 night at the beginning of the expedition and 1 night at the end of the expedition, 2 nights hotel accommodation in Penitentes, breakfasts and dinners in Penitentes, all land transportation, mules, all expedition food, all community gear such as; tents, stoves, state of the art Base Camp, cooking gear, medical kits, satellite phones, radios, gamow bag, pulse-oximeters, etc., and Aconcagua permit fee.

YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR
Round Trip Flights to and from Mendoza, meals in Mendoza, Personal equipment, passport, personal items and services (laundry, snacks, drinks, tips, etc.), and expenses incurred in the case of a rescue. Extra expenses for early departure from the expedition, such us non scheduled mules, etc.

NEW! GUANACOS VALLEY and Traverse ACONCAGUA EXPEDITION
This route is a newly discovered, non-technical route, explored by Aventuras Patagonicas in February of 1997. This is a much less traveled side of Aconcagua with gradual elevation gain between camps allowing for easier acclimatization than other routes. Acclimatization is the key element to summiting the highest peak in the Western Hemisphere. Our excellent success rate has been improved by climbing Aconcagua via the Guanacos Valley. We named this route the "Guanacos Route". During the exploration of the valley, we encountered large herds of wild guanaco, a rare sight in the Aconcagua region. This route offers very few trails, few people, and a true sense of adventure. It is the last untouched route on Aconcagua and we are proud to share this route with you! <more info below>

TRAVERSE
Our Traverse has been popular among our clients. Climbing Aconcagua via a non-technical route and descending the shorter Normal Route gives you the entire spectrum of the mountain, traveling three different valleys, the Vacas, Guanacos and Horcones, passing four distinct faces of this tremendous mountain. On all of these expeditions mules take our gear to Base Camp (Plaza Guanacos) on the East side of the mountain. After the Summit, we descend the north side via the Normal Route to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. Mules then carry our gear from Plaza de Mulas back to Penitentes while we hike out to civilization with a light pack. We ascend via the pristine Guanacos Valley and traverse to the Normal Route for the descent.

TRIP ITINERARY
 

DAY 1: Group meets in Mendoza, Argentina. Equipment check and afternoon briefing at the hotel. For dinner we will have a chance to taste fine Argentinean cuisine and wine.
DAY 2: Drive West from Mendoza to Penitentes ski area at 8,500 . Our drive winds along the Rio Mendoza deep into the heart of the rugged Andes mountains where we begin our acclimatization in Penitentes. An afternoon hike is recommended, though optional.
DAY 3-
 4-5:
Approach to Plaza Guanacos Base Camp. Mules carry our gear. This approximately 35 mile approach is essential to our acclimatization. Our first two days we follow the same route as Aventuras Patagonicas old Traverse and Polish Glacier Expeditions. The third day begins our new approach. We continue up the Vacas Valley instead of ascending the Relinchos Valley. The chances of seeing other expeditionson this new exciting route is remote. The chance of seeing numerous wildlife is much more probable. Spectacular glaciers contrasting with a desert backdrop make this approach both surreal and unforgettable. We have an excellent chance of seeing herds of guanacos. When Rodrigo did an exploratory trip to the region he encountered several hundred, counting 80 in one sighting alone! These magnificent mammals are well camouflaged, extremely elusive and a rare sight in the Aconcagua region.
DAY 6: Plaza Guanaco Base Camp at 13,000 . Rest and acclimatization day at Base Camp. We want everyone to have the best possible chance to make the summit. The most effective way to do this is to take the time to acclimatize to the low oxygen environment. We will incorporate rest days into our schedule and climb in traditional expedition style. We will be carrying loads up to the next camp and returning to sleep below at the previous camp. The next day we will move to the higher camp.
DAY 7: Carry a load to Camp I at approximately 15,200 . The route goes up the narrow valley between the North side of Cerro Ameghino and Cerro San Francisco. Here we will be able to see Nieve Penitentes, unique snow and ice formations created by the direct sun. Return to Base Camp.
DAY 8: Leave Base Camp. Move to Camp I.
DAY 9: Carry a load to Camp II at 16,500 , a pleasant well-protected area with tremendous views of Cerro Mercedario, Cerro Mano and other Andean giants. Return to Camp I.
DAY 10: Move to Camp II.
DAY 11: Carry a load to Camp III, below the Polish Glacier at 17,800 .
DAY 12: Move to Camp III. depending on how group is doing.
DAY 13: Carry to High Camp, Piedras Blancas (White Rocks) at 19,200.
DAY 14: Move to High Camp.
DAY 15-
 16-17:
Summit! Weather permitting. We allow several days for our Summit Day in case of poor weather.
DAY 18: Descend the Normal Route to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. This will be quite exciting since we will be descending a different side of the mountain.
DAY 19: Hike out the Horcones Valley, with its impressive views of Aconcagua s South Face. Spend the night in Penitentes.
DAY 20: Drive to Mendoza. Enjoy delicious team banquet! Next day fly home or continue traveling in South America.


 Note: This itinerary is intended to be a guideline only, weather days and rest days are always a possibility while on a climbing expedition.

 

High on the Guanacos Valley

 

Mules carrying gear to Base Camp up the Relinchos Valley

 

At 22,700' on Aconcagua's Summit Ridge

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© Photos by
Rodrigo Mujica

 


 


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